The enduring role of fashion in Indian classical dance

From the graceful twirl of a Bharatanatyam dancer’s pleated sari to the shimmering elegance of a Kathak performer’s flowing anarkali, fashion in Indian classical dance is a vital extension of the art itself. It is not merely about visual appeal — it is an embodiment of cultural identity, spiritual symbolism, and performative power.

How costume shapes identity, enhances expression, and preserves heritage in India’s classical dance forms

Each classical dance form in India — be it Odissi, Manipuri, Kuchipudi, Mohiniyattam, Kathakali or others — has a distinctive costume language rooted in centuries-old traditions. These costumes are deeply tied to the regional, religious, and narrative contexts from which the dances evolved. For example, the bright silk saris and temple jewellery worn in Bharatanatyam echo the attire of ancient temple dancers, while the elaborate face paint and layered skirts of Kathakali transform performers into larger-than-life mythological characters.

Fabric, colour, embellishment, and silhouette all play intentional roles. In many forms, such as Odissi and Mohiniyattam, white or off-white dominates the palette — a symbol of spiritual purity — often offset by red, which represents energy and divinity. Gold zari work and handcrafted jewellery, meanwhile, reinforce the sacred nature of the performance, often mirroring the attire of deities portrayed in temple sculpture.

Fashion in classical dance also serves a practical function. Structured pleats and borders are designed to emphasise movements, allowing the audience to perceive even subtle footwork or graceful mudras with clarity. Costumes often change depending on the story or deity being enacted, acting as a visual cue for the transformation of the dancer into character.

In a time where fusion and contemporary expression are on the rise, the enduring aesthetic of classical dance costumes remains a proud assertion of cultural continuity. Many dancers today still rely on master artisans for handwoven textiles, custom tailoring, and traditional jewellery, ensuring that each performance is not only an act of art, but also one of preservation.

In Indian classical dance, fashion is not an accessory — it is an anchor. It keeps the dancer connected to heritage, the audience immersed in narrative, and the artform rooted in its timeless origins.