Maria Grazia Chiuri makes fur-forward debut at Fendi

Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her first collection as creative director of Fendi during Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday, presenting a fur-forward offering that revisited the house’s Roman roots while shifting between structured daywear and fluid evening silhouettes.

Star-studded front row watches Chiuri’s Fendi reset

The show drew a star-filled front row. Uma Thurman arrived in a crisp white blouse layered under a dark blazer, a restrained look that subtly echoed the tailored mood on the runway. Jessica Alba opted for a double-breasted trouser suit, while Dakota Fanning and Monica Bellucci were also in attendance. Among the international guests was Fendi ambassador Bang Chan, prompting hundreds of K-pop fans to gather outside with handmade signs and sketches. Across the street, a small group of anti-fur protesters assembled, underscoring the continued debate surrounding the material.

Founded in Rome nearly a century ago as a furrier and leather goods workshop, Fendi’s heritage was central to Chiuri’s opening statement. Bombers, patchwork coats and plush overcoats highlighted the house’s longstanding expertise. Wispy fur collars framed silken dresses and sheer, beaded eveningwear, while fur-lined hoods topped parkas and substantial collars finished trench coats. The material appeared not as embellishment but as structural emphasis.

The show opened with dark blazers and sharply cut overcoats layered over tailored trousers, casual dresses and panels of sheer lace. Lace resurfaced in unexpected ways, including laser-cut leather dresses anchored by starched white collars and delicate bangles. The interplay between rigidity and softness threaded through the collection, balancing precision tailoring with more fluid elements.

Boho florals surfaced briefly, adding contrast to the predominantly black and navy palette, as did a sheer Art Deco–inspired dress that broke from the heavier outerwear narrative. Denim and animal prints appeared sparingly, punctuating the otherwise controlled colour story.

Chiuri’s appointment has been closely observed. She began her career at Fendi as a handbag designer before moving on to co-creative direct Valentino and later serve as creative director at Dior. Her return signals both continuity and recalibration for the Roman house.

The broader reshuffle across European fashion has largely favoured male designers, making Chiuri one of a limited number of women currently stepping into leadership roles at major houses. Among them are Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Meryll Rogge, who is set to debut at Marni this week.

Also watching from the front row was Silvia Venturini Fendi, who stepped aside as creative director last autumn. For the first time in years, she experienced the show from the audience rather than backstage.

“It’s very moving,” she said afterwards. “It’s the first time I have watched a Fendi runway show.”

With this debut, Chiuri placed Fendi’s fur legacy at the forefront, framing the house’s history within a contemporary runway conversation that moved between structure and sensuality without straying from its origins.

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