Kolkata designer Anubhuti Jain's sustainable fashion label has a zero-waste goal
We all want to lean on to the clean and sustainable fashion movement, but often don’t know where to start. Kolkata-based designer Anubhuti Jain feels any attempt to understand and practise the zero-waste goal is a contribution towards the fast-evolving narrative of ethical fashion. The NIFT graduate’s size-inclusive contemporary wear label is just over a year old, and the millennial designer is already making some very significant leaps.
“I started out in an export house, and I observed very closely how scraps of fabrics or cut-outs would be wasted. Those are beautiful, and can be obviously re-used, so I started using them on my T-shirts. You’ll see some fabric detailing or bead embellishments on my T-shirts; they’re actually recycled scraps, materials which have been left behind, torn or discarded, and they are handstitched into the shirts by local artisans,” says Anubhuti, whose label has also made way for homegrowns crafts to be featured in her designs.
Anubhuti, who is the daughter of Kolkata-based artist Madhu Dhanuka Jain has been inspired tremendously by her mother’s art. The label’s aesthetic prominently focuses on wearable figurative art; you will see some delightful kitschy prints, some classical abstractism and relevant motifs in their saris, draped kurtas and jackets.
“We use 100 per cent organic cotton, which as you know is produced without the use of pesticides and fertilisers, and all my pieces are upcycled. And I think the entire process contributes to the zero-waste focus as we are being careful on all fronts,” says Anubhuti, who believes that circular fashion, or the method of not letting any material go to waste can really bring about a difference in the big picture.
Needless to say, the Anubhuti Jain Label is a hit on social media, as the patch artwork, popping colour palettes and recycled metallic detailing add an edge. “When you are creating something from scratch, the process is different and more fulfilling; my work is research-based, as we are really trying to sharpen our definition of sustainability. And we also need to think about how comfortable and practical our pieces can get, and about the aesthetic appeal, as more and more younger people want to make a personal statement,” adds Anubhuti, whose label is predominantly size-inclusive, as she is quite wary of the limited range of apparel which is made exclusively for curvier women.
“Fashion has been restricted to a certain body type for too long, and I think that was just an imitation of the western culture. It’s changing now, of course. I think NIFT is coming up with a new size chart. My priority as a designer has always been to add value to my client’s life, so they feel good about themselves,” says the designer, who also sells costume jewellery made from recycled products. Anubhuti’s kurtas can cost you something around Rs 2,000 and a top or a blouse costs around Rs 1,500 and her T-shirts start from Rs 400.
You can send her a DM on her Facebook or Instagram page if you wish to make a purchase