“All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make, the better,” said American essayist and philosopher Ralph Waldo Emerson. The words stand true, especially in a creative field like design where experimentation is the mother of evolution. When it comes to Hyderabad, the City of Nizams had an expeditiously evolving journey in fashion -- one where it veered from old to modern sartorial sensibilities. From boasting of having the largest wardrobe in the world during the time of the first Nizam, Mehboob Ali Khan, to today when it is a host to many fashion stores, pop-ups and lifestyle exhibitions, the city's transformation signifies a reinvention in all its savoir-faire.
The spirit to experiment and re-invent is well presented in its dressing too. Bygone era's Deccani style majestic ensembles like angrakhas, neemas, achkans and Telugu womenswear outfits like langa vonis are being contemporarised into classic, retro, boho apparels paraded on occasions by the fashion frenzy people. Two-piece outfits like Langa Voni's have transformed into chic outerwear like gown saris and co-ords. Ornate embroideries like zari, zardozi, mukaish and katdana that exclusively embellished the outfits of aristocrats are now adorning the new-age outerwear crafted to the comfort of all.
However, in this part of the country, modern transformation is not screaming in the face. We won't see an interplay of unexpected materials, avant-garde silhouettes, 3-D printing techniques or any such radical endeavours but rather an earnest attempt to honour the glorious past while moving ahead with time. In this special anniversary edition, we talk to the city's renowned designers who are gracefully reinventing fashion by celebrating experimentation. We see the city's evolution through their eyes and how they turn tides to stay relevant yet timeless with their creations.
Archana Rao
National Award Winning costumier and ace designer Archana Rao marks a decade in the fashion industry this year. Her creations that exude a vintage appeal and dreamy feminine allure have won her several accolades, and the trust of celebrities like Nora Fatehi, Dia Mirza and Samantha Ruth Prabhu amongst many others.
She tells us what’s paving the way for experimentation in the city, “Our heritage has bonded all Hyderabadis together and I love that about our city. This has remained a constant for decades. However, today, Hyderabad’s fashion is a contemporary take on our rich culture and heritage. As designers, we are constantly tweaking, transforming and redefining all that this city has to offer. I’ve observed that while classic silhouettes never go out of fashion, people now want to own a distinctive style and are open to experimenting more. Whether it's a structured blazer with pearl embroidery, restyling a khada dupatta for a cocktail party, or styling a waistcoat with a sari, we designers are catering to the new age expectations. So the fashion in the city has taken a turn towards the changing times by embracing the new besides holding to its roots.”
The designer tells how her new edit Prologue is a refreshing attempt to create an elaborate Indian line, “The collection is a debut to a new world of design for the brand. I wanted to create timeless pieces that never go out of style so we have explored a palette of gossamer and organza saris and gowns inspired by my early childhood memories of the five-yard attire. The collection indulges in soothing hues of ivory, peach, powder blue and lavender, while nodding at the classic black for a punctuated finale. That being said, it also embraces the heritage we grew up with.”
Aisha Rao
The young fashion tycoon, Aisha Rao has recently showcased at the FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week. Known for creating gorgeous yet sustainable up-cycled occasionwear, Aisha strikes a fine balance between delicacy and maximalism in design.
A believer of now or never, when it comes to experiments, she avers, “We belong to that generation that is able to break the archaic rules of fashion with their choices and zeal to experiment. We can choose to make a pantsuit out of Banarasi brocade fabric and not just wear it as a sari or pair a Benarasi skirt with a shirt. This kind of freedom of choice was not there for our mothers at their time. So I don’t want to take this choice for granted. This is why I try to do things differently and give my generation a plethora of options to choose from. While there are many designers keeping it classic, I just don’t want to be another one. I wish to stand out at an event with my ensembles, which in a way, represent my voice.” Aisha’s latest edit Divergence captures the dynamic spirit of experimentation with its high-octane colours and print-on-print. She adds, “ It was a collection designed to cheer ourselves up given the circumstances we were emerging from. So we had to make it fun and mood-boosting and we achieved that with loads of exuberant colours.”
Geethika Kanumilli
For design powerhouse, Geethika Kanumilli, fashion is a form of self-expression. The NIFT alumna who embarked on her eponymous label in 2015 had the vision to create ensembles for neo-modern brides. The same comes true in her edits where she blends Indian fabrics with global style standards for the brides of today.
On being asked about where she finds the zeal to be inventive, she tells us, “People are a lot more open to experimenting now, in terms of silhouettes and colours. That's amazing because that way, we as designers can come up with new designs without worrying about acceptance!” The celebrity designer whose creations have been spotted on eminent figures like P.V Sindhu, Rashmika Mandanna, Keerthy Suresh and more knows how to capture the pulse of the new generation. Her latest edit Ever After exemplifies that by presenting age-old zari and threadwork with contemporary outlines, eloquent geometric motifs and versatility in wearing.
Kavitha Gutta
Raised in a country of glorious arts and crafts, falling in love with India’s culture was inevitable for Hyderabad-based designer Kavitha Gutta. However, not only did she appreciate the beautiful ancient crafts but also re-invented them with her bridal wear edits tailored for the 21st-century woman. She shares how the changing mindset of people is leading to wide scope for inventiveness in The City Of Pearls, “Having social media access on your hands has made it possible for people to know the latest trends and global scenarios in the fashion industry. People in Hyderabad have recently become open to experimenting with modern silhouettes and fabrics. They are moving out of their comfort zone and donning more modern, chic yet classy styles. The modern mindset and exposure to cinema have also made a great impact on them to be comfortable with new styles.” Kavitha’s latest edit Midnight Sun enchants one for traditional fabric, neat embroidery and modish style that makes it a quintessential collection for women of all ages. “Since the wedding season and festivities are at an all-time high, people have great plans for celebrating. They have become more open in choices when it comes to their personal style. So our edit highlights this newfound spirit of joy, happiness and acceptance of the change," the designer adds.
Swathi Veldandi
The Warangal-born designer, Swathi Veldandi’s studio in Hyderabad knows how to conjure magic with the Nizami embroideries. The designer’s creations stand out for their hand-dyed colours, hand-woven fabrics and embodiment of the grandeur of historical times.
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Telling us about the new sartorial preferences of people in the city, she avers, “In terms of bridal wear, things have not changed much other than a fresh palette of colours catching the bride’s fancy. However, in terms of western clothing, people have become broad-minded and are embracing global trends.” Swathi’s latest edit Nadira-- inspired by the regal era of Nizams-- is an ode to the city's traditional values but at the same time, it is re-invented for the modern brides. She does that by presenting a stunning display of zari, katdana and zardosi embroidery work on contemporary silhouettes like silks and organza, truly portraying the bride as a vision!
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