Exclusive: Indian designers are turning metal into couture, meet the top six names behind the trend

It all began as an armour — cold, unyielding and built for war. The Bronze Age (circa 2,300-700 BCE) saw the earliest metal alloys hammered into protective gear, shielding warriors from the blows of battle. Metalwork, one of the oldest elemental skills known to humankind, was first about survival, but as centuries passed, something extraordinary happened! What once served as mere protection began to shimmer with artistry.

By the Renaissance (14th-16th centuries), plate armour had become more than just a battlefield necessity — they were a symbol of wealth, status and power. Nobles and rulers commissioned elaborate suits, not only to defend but to dazzle. Each adorned with etching, engraving, hammered embossing and even gold gilding. Precious metals like gold and silver were seamlessly inlaid, creating striking contrasts and patterns. It was not uncommon for celebrated artists of the time to collaborate with master armourers, infusing their creative vision into the project that protected royalty.

The battlefields disappeared, but the legacy of metal in fashion remains. Gone are the days when this lustrous element was confined to warfare — its evolution has led it to the runways, where it has reinvented itself as metal couture. Unlike simple metallic embellishments, couture pushes boundaries, constructing entire garments and accessories from metal itself, balancing sculptural form with wearable fashion.

The 1960s particularly marked a turning point when Paco Rabanne shattered conventions, replacing traditional fabrics with chainmail, metal plates and discs. His futuristic vision was immortalised in the film Barbarella (1968). Decades later, the body-moulding potential of metal was explored by designers like William Griffiths, who sculpted corsetry and innerwear in rigid yet fluid metallic forms.

Cut to today, technology and fashion intersect in more ways than one. New York-based designer Grace Ling, for instance, fused metal with innovation, using 3D printing and CGI to craft a gold breastplate adorned with seven golden roses, welded seamlessly to fit Katy Perry’s torso. Tom Ford’s pink lacquered breastplate for Zendaya, designed using 3D body scanning, underscores the precision and artistry required to transform metal into second skin. Let’s not forget Schiaparelli’s gold hand-forged metal bustier for Natasha Poonawala’s Met Gala 2022 gilded glamour look.

While the west redefined metal’s role in fashion, Indian designers observed, adapted and infused their mastery into the mix. Drawing from traditional metalwork and modern artistry, Indian couturiers have carved out a distinctive space in the world of metal couture. From the sculptural brilliance of Misho Custom Couture to Gaurav Gupta’s pieces that feel like a second skin and Bloni Atelier’s iconic inverted teardrop-shaped domb, we introduce you to six designers pushing the boundaries of wearable metal, redefining its place on global runways while learning from them where they see this art form headed.

Beginning with the trailblazing Suhani Parekh, the powerhouse behind the award-winning design studio jewellery brand and now metal couture label Misho Designs — a force redefining the boundaries between fashion, jewellery and art, making metal couture a dynamic staple in contemporary wardrobes.

“We’re receiving more Misho couture requests from brides worldwide and women seeking statement pieces for cocktails and galas. It’s exciting to see metal couture becoming a bold choice for those eager to experiment with form and style — no longer confined to the runway or red carpet!” Suhani expresses delight.

Debuting their first couture pieces — a series of 24-carat gold-plated bronze bustiers — just a couple of years ago, these bespoke designs quickly caught the eyes of Lady Whistledown (portrayed by Nicola Coughlan), Beyoncé and Samantha Ruth Prabhu.

“When Nicola’s team reached out, we drew inspiration from her Bridgerton character, Penelope Featherington. The bodypiece, designed for Season 3 promotions, takes the form of a heart, symbolising the season’s focus on her love story through a modern, sculptural lens. In contrast, Beyoncé’s look was crafted to exude strength and power, combining bold forms with clean lines to amplify her commanding stage presence. Every couture piece is rooted in storytelling, ensuring the design reflects and enhances its narrative,” the jeweller-turned-couturier elaborates.

Soon, Akshat Bansal and his label, Bloni Atelier, followed suit. “Metal is a fundamental prehistoric material that has existed on our planet for centuries. To ensure wearability, we must understand human anatomy, striking a balance between lightness and density while designing for both aesthetics and body mobility.

We use software like 3D modelling alongside traditional hand-hammering techniques in Firozabad to create artisanal, handmade pieces,” Akshat shares. Known for incorporating unconventional and eco-conscious materials like recycled metals, marine plastic waste and econyl (regenerated nylon) into his designs, Akshat’s most talked-about metal creation is the chrome finished hand-hammered stainless steel inverted piece, Teardrop.

Sported by Natasha Poonawalla at Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant’s pre-wedding celebrations, it turned heads and set new standards for Indian couture. “Natasha’s Teardrop symbolises how tears are an intrinsic part of human experience — both a necessary emotional release and a means of liberation from anxiety. The future of fashion lies in blending diverse materials with metal. Our latest collection, Metanoia 2025, embraces this evolution, incorporating even more metallic elements to solidify metal as an integral part of the brand’s identity,” the designer reveals.

By the summer of 2024, we noticed metal being fully embraced in haute couture and one that shone bright was Gaurav Gupta’s Arunodaya edit. “Metal couture has always been about pushing the limits of structure and fluidity. The gold and silver metal corsets in our collection explore this balance, merging the ruffled dupatta to soften the armour-like presence of the corset, creating a dialogue between power and grace,” Gaurav explains.

Featuring futuristic elements like metallic breastplates, the collection seamlessly weaves the couturier’s signature sculpting artistry, heralding a new era in Indian couture. “The challenge with metal couture is to craft it as fluid as fabric and armour that feels like a second skin. We use advanced sculpting techniques, from precision laser cutting to hand-forged shaping. The future is all about integrating dynamic structures, kinetic elements and new material innovations to create pieces that feel both sculptural and effortless,” he illustrates.

Last month, during our visit to Mumbai, we spotted metal repoussé artworks reimagined as blouses and draped saris, showcased in a limited-edition inaugural installation at Tilfi’s (a benarasi clothing label) new flagship store in Ballard Estate.

“Our exploration of metal was born from the same place as our work with textiles — a deep reverence for craft and form. At Tilfi, we’re always drawn to the potential of materials, especially those with cultural depth. Working with repoussé, one of Benaras’s most ancient metalworking techniques, we set out to shape metal into new, unexpected forms that echo the fluidity of drapes, the intricacy of textile motifs and the intimacy of adornment,” states co-founder Aditi Chand.

Designed to transcend seasons, these pieces by Tilfi may have begun as decorative art, transformed into wearable forms and now returned to sculpture, yet retaining their value and beauty in every state. “The repoussé process is slow and meticulous, with each indentation and curve shaped by hand over hours of work. As the piece evolved, it naturally took on a form suited for wear. It was designed to sit comfortably on the body while maintaining its presence as a standalone object. Seen as a hybrid, it merges jewellery, sculpture and garment into a singular artistic expression,” she articulates.

You know a trend has truly permeated all forms of fashion, not just when high-end designers and art revivalists incorporate it, but when even smaller brands integrate it into their offerings. Era Stories, a celebrity-favourite contemporary handcrafted jewellery brand, for example, rolled out a Golden Gleam Bralette deeply rooted in the rich history of Calcutta’s colonial transformative era.

“Before the British Raj, women in Calcutta did not typically wear blouses; this attire only emerged with the influence of British culture. Our designs reflect this historical shift, blending traditional elements with contemporary aesthetics. The piece captures the essence of empowerment and evolution in women’s fashion,” details founder and creative director Sayani Sinha.

The creation process begins with hammering, shaping the raw metal into a fluid yet structured form. This is followed by filing, refining the edges and sculpting geometric details to ensure a smooth, polished and wearable finish.

“In India, where metal was once limited to just jewellery, it’s now shaping fashion — hand-forged, moulded and redefined. The future? Lighter, flexible and adaptive metal wear that moves with you. This isn’t just embellishment; it’s self-expression in its boldest form,” she aspires.

When we say all forms of fashion, we mean accessories too — including the ultimate carryall: a handmade bag crafted entirely from metal. Nirmooha’s latest custom metal couture collection, recently unveiled at Paris Fashion Week 2025, features handcrafted metal mini handbags inspired by Shree (श्री) — a symbol of strength and transformation. “For Shree, metal was not just an embellishment but a core design element, enhancing both structure and movement without compromising comfort,” concludes Prreeti Jaiin Nainutia, founder and designer.

As metal emerges to be the ‘new fabric of couture’, designers vow to continue experimenting with adaptive elements, sustainable materials, technological collaborations and modular designs. The next phase of metal couture is all about expanding its language beyond the runway, finding the bridge between metal’s fluidity and the movement of its wearer.