Inspired by jamawar, French paisleys and Kashmiri kashidakari, Dolly J’s debut menswear line is all about textiles

Celebrated couturier Dolly J steps into menswear with the debut of An Heirloom Summer, her first-ever collection for men. “I’ve always believed couture should carry meaning and legacy. With An Heirloom Summer, it felt like the right time to offer a men’s line that reflects the same craftsmanship and emotion I bring to women’s wear. Today’s modern gentleman seeks more than style — he seeks stories, heritage and timelessness. This collection is my response to that,” she begins.

Musing on personal archive

Drawing from a rich personal archive, the collection breathes new life into heirloom craftsmanship. “The concept behind An Heirloom Summer was rooted in the idea of creating garments that feel like modern-day heirlooms — pieces rich in memory, craftsmanship and quiet elegance. The initial spark came from my personal collection of vintage jamawar shawls and a deep admiration for Kashmiri and French textile traditions. I wanted to reimagine these timehonoured elements into menswear,” the designer reveals.

Womenswear vs Menwear

Her approach to menswear design is rooted in the same philosophy that defines her womenswear: storytelling through craft, attention to detail and timeless elegance. “With womenswear, there’s room for fluidity and drama — layered textures, flowing forms and overt embellishments. In contrast, menswear relies on precision: hand-embroidered collars and meticulously placed motifs. Structure plays a central role; silhouettes must balance sharp tailoring with comfort, while ornamentation must feel intentional, never overwhelming,” Dolly shares.

Summer silhouettes

An Heirloom Summer strikes a balance between tradition and modernity, blending classic achkans and sherwanis with intricate handwork, lighter cuts and subtle layering — alongside sharp tuxedos and versatile open jacket sets. “We’ve used traditional techniques like resham, aari, zardosi and hand-forged metallic thread work, tailored specifically for masculine silhouettes. These include motifs drawn from jamawars, Kashmiri kashidakari and French paisleys. Vintage jamawar shawls inspired the use of dense, tapestry-like embroidery. French paisleys informed the fluidity and elegance of the motifs. Kashmiri kashidakari brought in a sense of fine detailing and tonal layering,” the couturier elucidates.

Heritage textiles

For this debut, the collection primarily features rich, heritage-rooted fabrics such as silk brocades, handwoven jacquards, chanderi silks and fine wool blends — each selected for its ability to hold structure while beautifully showcasing intricate embroidery. “The colour palette for An Heirloom Summer is a refined blend of inky blacks, antique ivories, muted golds and soft silvers. These shades were carefully chosen to enhance the intricate textures and detailed embroidery,” she notes.

₹85,000 onwards. Available online.