Organic cotton gets a glam makeover in Chaitanya Rao’s summer line

In a world of fast fashion and fleeting trends, Chaitanya Rao stands quietly defiant. The Chennai-based designer—who has effortlessly juggled roles as a costume designer for films, a stylist to stars, and a couturier to the fashion-conscious—has never been one to follow the herd. And with his latest collection, Chaitanya is rewriting the rules, yet again. This time, with organic cotton.

Breaking fashion myths: Cotton can be glamorous

Yes, cotton. But not the stiff, shapeless variety that conjures images of laundry-day wrinkles and predictable silhouettes. Chaitanya’s organic line is sensual, tailored, weather-friendly—and most importantly, unapologetically stylish. “People think cotton and glam don’t go together,” he says with his characteristic laid-back candour, “but that’s exactly the myth I wanted to break with this collection.”

The muse for this eco-chic line? None other than actress, singer, and longtime friend Andrea Jeremiah. With their two-decade-long friendship and a shared commitment to sustainability and self-expression, the pairing feels as organic as the cotton itself.

A fresh canvas

We catch up with Chaitanya whose recent film styling project, Tourist Family, has been winning applause for its aesthetics and cultural accuracy. “Simran was my first muse, to be honest,” he says, reflecting on his journey. “We’ve done some amazing looks over the years, and this film was no different. It was a young team, and I had to research Sri Lankan traditions for Simran’s look, but I made sure to keep it real, relatable… not too dated.”

But while his film costumes continue to garner praise, Chaitanya’s energy has already shifted to his latest launch. And he’s visibly more animated when discussing his personal collections. “The freedom you get when you’re designing your own line is something else. On film sets, you’re following someone else’s vision—director, DOP, even the lighting affects costume choices. But with your collection, it’s your baby. You can go wild,” he explains.

Organic, but make it sexy

Set against the sultry, sun-drenched mood of Chennai’s eternal summer, the new collection feels like a sigh of relief. The cuts are sharp, silhouettes structured yet breezy, and the palette—a creamy base offset by darker, moodier tones—invites you to look closer.

“I’ve used organic cottons that don’t wrinkle as much. It still wrinkles a bit—it’s cotton, after all—but that’s part of the charm,” Chaitanya grins. “There used to be this tagline I loved: ‘Enjoy the wrinkle!’ That was when I worked with Colour Plus back in the day, when they were importing cottons for Banana Republic and GAP. I think that stayed with me.”

But don’t mistake comfort for compromise. “We’ve done wide-leg trousers, double-breasted blazers, structured capes… pieces that are flattering, fitted, and look damn good. It’s sustainable, but make it sexy,” he adds.

The Andrea factor

In the images from their latest shoot, Andrea Jeremiah channels effortless grace. Posing in a cream-on-cream linen set in a coastal property off ECR, she looks both powerful and poised. It’s a perfect pairing.

“I always believe that ‘less is more’—except maybe when I’m on stage,” Andrea laughs. “This collection felt like it was made for me. I’m all for sustainable clothing, and Chaitanya’s designs just get me. Clean cuts, no fuss, and high quality—that’s what I live for.”

Their relationship goes way back—long before Instagram made fashion friendships a thing. “Chaitan sponsored an outfit for my very first solo concert in Chennai, even before I entered films,” Andrea recalls. “We’ve worked together since then—Putham Pudhu Kaalai, Pisasu 2… and every time, it’s been seamless.”

Chaitanya agrees. “Andrea plays the piano, acts, sings… she’s effortless. And we have so much trust between us. We recently did this shoot because she wore one of the pieces for a performance and we didn’t get good pictures. So I said, ‘Let’s do it again—but this time properly.’ And that’s how this happened.”

Designed for the climate—and the times

Living in Chennai, Chaitanya knows the pain of looking good while sweating buckets. That’s why the collection is also a technical win. “You can’t blindly follow trends here,” he says. “I always ask — Is this wearable in Chennai weather? So the cuts are loose where they need to be, but the fit is still flattering.”

His personal favourites? “I love the double blazer in organic cotton. People assume cotton can’t be made into a stylish blazer. But wait till you see this one—it’s structured, breathable, and seriously cool. Also, our capes. Capes never go out of style. I’ve done organza and modal cotton jackets you can throw over anything,” he says.

The collection is also inclusive—across body types and gender identities. “It’s Pride Month. And I’ve done unisex wide-leg trousers, and our pieces can be styled across the spectrum. The corset-dhoti combo is one of my favourites. Sounds bizarre, but it looks amazing.”

Dressing with intention

For Andrea, this partnership goes beyond the aesthetic. “Fashion is about self-expression,” she says. “I travel a lot and I’m always scouting for stage outfits. But I also believe in reusing and re-styling. It’s not just about buying more. It’s about choosing better.”

Her wardrobe staples? “Shades of white,” she says with a smile. “Heels on stage, flats in Chennai, and sneakers when I travel. I like things that are functional, chic, and timeless. And Chaitanya always gets that balance right.”

A return to classic cool

While Chaitanya’s collections may push boundaries, his personal style remains a masterclass in quiet luxury. “Give me a classic Armani jacket, a black tee, and jeans—I’m sorted,” he says. “You don’t want to think too much about what to wear. Keep it simple.”

And what about trends? “Skinny jeans are dead—thank God,” he laughs. “I was never a fan. I’ve always believed in clothes that let you breathe, literally and emotionally.”

Looking ahead

Even as Chaitanya reflects on his current line, he’s already thinking ahead. “As designers, we’re mentally living in 2026. Always a season—or five—ahead,” he says.

So, what’s next? “I’ve done pieces for Amala Paul recently—postpartum looks that are fitted, flattering, and organic. That’s where I’m heading—real fashion for real people, without losing the glam.”

His goal, he says, is simple: “I want to make people feel good in what they wear. Whether it’s organic cotton or couture silk, it’s got to feel like you.”

In Chaitanya Rao’s world, style and sustainability aren’t at odds—they’re partners in crime. And with Andrea Jeremiah as his muse and a summer-ready organic collection that turns clichés on their head, he’s giving fashion lovers one more reason to choose thoughtfully—and dress beautifully.

Photography: Sunder Ramu | Styling: Chaitanya Rao | Makeup: Prakruthi Ananth | Hair: Sharmila | Location: Bask (ECR ) | Andrea Jeremiah wears: Chaitanya Rao Organic Cotton Collection | Jewellery: Raji Anand

— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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