Nikhil Thampi’s NAIA collection: Timeless couture that whispers power

Among the luminaires shaping Indian fashion, very few names hold the weight and quiet magnetism of Nikhil Thampi. Known for architectural silhouettes, bold femininity, and a fierce dedication to modern Indian couture, Nikhil has carved a niche that is equal parts fearless and refined. His designs are never just garments—they’re declarations. This year, as his eponymous label enters its 15th edition, he returns with NAIA, a collection that’s not loud, but deeply powerful—a whispered luxury that commands attention without shouting for it.

The NAIA collection by Nikhil Thampi blends emotional luxury with sculptural elegance

“NAIA is couture that doesn’t scream—it whispers. It’s about layering functionality with fantasy. These are pieces that don’t just dress a woman—they empower her,” Nikhil says with calm conviction.

Rooted in resilience

Nikhil’s return feels almost poetic. After navigating personal grief and familial responsibilities—including the loss of his father in 2021 and his mother’s ongoing health battles—his re-entry into fashion isn’t just a creative milestone; it’s an emotional reckoning.

“I spent a lot of time in hospitals over the last few years. But family is the priority. Work can wait,” he shares.

In that pause, a quieter, more reflective vision took shape. The result is NAIA, a demi-couture collection designed not for spectacle, but for intimate grandeur—the kind found in destination weddings, Diwali dinners, and legacy moments that unfold off-stage.

“This collection isn’t about trends—it’s about timelessness. Something you’d wear now, and your daughter would wear years later. That’s what heirloom means to me,” he explains.

The modular muse

NAIA is built around modularity—each piece transforming in small but meaningful ways. Beaded pallus double as scarves or stoles. Gloved sleeves sparkle with embedded stones, eliminating the need for additional jewellery. A standout black anarkali features a kundan haathphool seamlessly attached to the sleeve—function meeting form in the most elegant way.

“The idea actually came from a bride. She didn’t want to carry expensive jewellery abroad. So we thought—what if the garment is the jewellery?,” Nikhil recalls.

He calls it investment dressing—pieces you can restyle, reuse, and reimagine for multiple occasions. It’s smart, it’s stunning, and—most importantly—it’s sustainable.

“Modular fashion isn’t just smart—it’s essential. It gives women the power to own their style, again and again,” he says.

A story told in colour

The NAIA colour story is designed to mirror the passage of time. From lune, a moonlit ivory, to dawn, a blush that captures morning light, to the rich warmth of ember and terra, the palette flows into night with ebon, a deep, assertive black. There’s rhythm in the hues, a progression that makes the collection feel cinematic.

“I wanted the colours to reflect time—from morning rituals to midnight celebrations. And every shade complements Indian skin beautifully,” he says. It’s this attention to detail that elevates the entire offering. Nothing is accidental; every element is imbued with purpose.

Unapologetically evolving

The designer tells us that the Nikhil Thampi woman is empowered, practical, and deeply self-aware. “She has nothing to prove—but she turns heads anyway. She’s quieter in voice but louder in presence. She doesn’t dress to impress others—she dresses to express herself,” she says.

That confidence is mirrored in the design language. Unlike many who have pivoted to shapeless silhouettes, Nikhil continues to honour the form. His sculptural aesthetic remains a signature, but it’s never about fitting into a mold.

“Structure, to me, is empowerment. It’s not about body type—it’s about owning your shape. Anti-fit has its place, but I’ll always lean into form that celebrates the individual,” he says.

There’s a deep belief behind each cut, each curve of fabric. These aren’t clothes that wear the woman. They elevate her.

Between cultures and chapters

With a mixed Gujarati-Malayali heritage and a base in Mumbai, Nikhil’s cultural fluidity informs his storytelling. He doesn’t box himself into regional codes or traditional norms. His collections are urban, yet deeply Indian—rooted, but never restricted.

“We’re designing for women who travel the world but still want to feel grounded in their culture. That duality is key to everything I do,” he says.

From the India collection to the Gleam capsule and even his shoe line, Nikhil has continuously evolved while staying true to his brand DNA. His audience, too, has changed—especially since 2017.

“Younger clients are actually more conservative now, and their mothers are bolder,” he laughs. “It’s a beautiful reversal. What hasn’t changed is the desire for clothing that tells their story,”

Runways v reality

Nikhil’s shift from runway spectacles to lookbook-led launches wasn’t just a logistical move—it was deeply intentional. “Runways are grand, but not always intimate. Lookbooks give me space to breathe, to shape the narrative the way I want. I’m not chasing applause. I’m chasing impact,” he explains.

This reimagined business model reflects a broader industry shift—less performance, more purpose. More authenticity.

The fabric of emotion

In previous collections, Nikhil leaned on crepe blends for their structure. But a recent foray into pure silk and dupion in his Sylph collection taught him something deeper about restraint.

“I learned that luxury is quiet. When the fabric speaks, you don’t need to shout with embellishments. I became more thoughtful. More poetic,” he reflects.

That softness carries into NAIA, where nothing feels excessive, and everything feels intentional. The drama is still there—it’s just calibrated for modern life.

Legacy in layers

NAIA isn’t just a collection. It’s a manifesto—an ode to resilience, rebirth, and reimagined heritage. It doesn’t just dress up for the moment; it leaves behind meaning.

“This isn’t about nostalgia. It’s about continuity. I want these clothes to be passed on—not just because they’re beautiful, but because they meant something,” Nikhil explains.

His voice softens, then strengthens again, “This is a tribute to the woman who has lived, loved, lost, and still shows up. That’s NAIA. That’s me too.”

Nikhil has dressed everyone from Bollywood royalty to brides with bold taste, yet he remains grounded, focused, and fiercely original. The pressure to perform, to stay visible, to feed the ever-hungry content cycle—he rejects it with grace.“I don’t design to be famous. I design to be remembered,” he states.

With NAIA, he’s created more than couture. He’s stitched a chapter of life into fabric. One that whispers, stuns, and stays. And just like the woman who wears it—it endures.

Price on request. Available online.

— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin