Suket Dhir turns ancient Indian fables into modern couture

There’s a particular rhythm to Suket Dhir’s voice—a gentle cadence with infectious warmth, like someone telling you a story on a long winter evening. His label, SUKETDHIR, which he founded in 2011, carries that same rhythm: a swing in its step, a sparkle of effervescence, and a refusal to bow to the dullness of sobriety. This year’s Autumn/Winter ’25 collection arrives as a testament to that spirit—an elegant dance of minimalism that never compromises on meaning.

The fusion of menswear and womenswear in Suket Dhir’s designs

“Minimalism for me isn’t about less,” Suket explains. “It’s about meaning. Every piece carries a hidden story—whether in its weave, motif, or finish. We create occasion wear that is light yet luxurious, rooted in craft yet modern in spirit—timeless, personal, and quietly powerful.”

The label’s work is a celebration of whimsy and wonder, with silhouettes that invite discovery—each garment unfolding a secret the longer you wear it. “Chennai has now become an annual winter destination for me,” Suket says. “I’m too scared to come in summer; I feel hot everywhere. So that’s probably why I love coming here in December–January—it’s become an annual affair.”

Despite the fashion world’s calendar-driven chaos, Suket doesn’t create “seasonal” collections in the traditional sense. His latest obsession—the genesis of this collection—has been brewing for almost three years, inspired by a deeply personal moment: his son turning nine.

The Panchatantra obsession

“Nine is the perfect age to start children on stories,” he says. “Stories that have been passed down for generations—from Kashmir to Kanyakumari. Originally written in Sanskrit, the Panchatantra tales go back thousands of years.”

He refers to the legendary collection of fables taught by the sage Pandit Vishnu Sharma to three inattentive princes, sons of King Amarshakti. The king, worried about his sons’ lack of wisdom, found in storytelling a way to teach them through wit, animals, and metaphor—a tradition that endures.

“The Panchatantra stories are perfect for kids because they’re about animals—monkeys, crocodiles, lions, fish—and children love animals. They observe squirrels, birds, tortoises; it’s natural to connect with these tales through the animal kingdom.”

A collection woven with stories

This collection breathes life into those ancient tales through detailed, whimsical sketches embroidered and printed across luxurious fabrics. Stories like The Blue Jackal, The Monkey and the Crocodile, The Lion and the Bull, and The Crane and the Fish come alive in thread and texture.

One story that stands out is The Crane and the Crab. “In this tale, the crane convinces the fish to trust him, saying he’ll carry them to a better pond during a drought. Because he stands on one leg, everyone thinks he’s doing penance—tapas—and is wise. But he’s actually cunning, eating the fish one by one. It’s a beautiful story told through folk art in this collection,” Suket recounts.

The collection’s centrepiece is a reimagining of phulkari, traditionally known for its bold, bright patterns. “Phulkari is usually very vibrant,” Suket says, “but what we’ve done is subtle—tone-on-tone, almost like a whisper. Ivory on teal, mustard on mustard. If you don’t look carefully, you might miss it.”

This quiet reinterpretation lends a sense of intimacy and refinement—modern innovation layered over tradition, much like the collection itself.

Hidden details and modern twists

Suket is known for his subtle surprises—hidden details that reward those who look closer. “If you examine the prints carefully, you’ll spot the monkey from The Monkey and the Crocodile wearing a stole—or even binoculars,” he says with a grin.

“Those details didn’t exist 2,000 years ago,” he says. “It’s a modern interpretation. The animals get these contemporary touches to make the stories feel universal. That’s what I’m known for—telling Indian stories in a way that feels global.”

Animals, he admits, have always found their way into his designs. “Maybe it’s subconscious,” he muses. “I’ve been an animal lover and a vegetarian for three years now. I grew up vegetarian, started eating meat in college, and continued to be a non-vegetarian even after my marriage. But it was mostly fish—light, simple flavours. Now I’ve gone back to mostly vegetarian food, and it’s never bland or boring.”

Fusion of tradition and modernity

Traditionally focused on menswear, Suket’s newest collection expands into womenswear. Silhouettes flow between traditional kurta-pajamas and modern cuts—dresses, coats, part-kurtas, and jackets.

One standout piece is The Matrix Jacket. “It’s inspired by the jackets from The Matrix, but blended with traditional Indian sherwani styles,” he explains. “It’s like India’s answer to an overcoat—a sleek, versatile travel jacket you can wear over a sari or lehenga during chilly North Indian winters.” It bridges East and West—the functionality of an overcoat with the cultural elegance of a sherwani.

Brocades, cotton jacquard, and more

Suket lights up when talking about fabrics. “We’ve used cotton jacquard—a fabric with an intricate weave that gives a quilted effect without extra layers. Traditionally used in upholstery, but we’ve created a finer, softer version for garments. It’s rugged yet refined—a dance between toughness and sophistication.” Brocades and handwoven silks also feature prominently, adding texture and depth.

The muse

When asked about his muse, Suket smiles immediately. “It’s my wife, Svetlana. She’s half Telugu and half Russian—she bridges two worlds, traditional Indian culture and modern international values.”

“She’s delicate yet independent, sensual in a subtle way—not loud or showy, but effortlessly confident. She embodies the balance my collection seeks: pride in heritage, expressed with a playful modern spirit. It’s nazakat—the delicacy of tradition—with a bold, contemporary confidence.”

On Indian storytelling

Suket’s design philosophy draws deeply from India’s storytelling traditions. “Our stories have layers—the literal, the metaphorical, and the metaphysical,” he says thoughtfully. “Western narratives created superheroes like Superman after religion declined—symbols of duty and effort. Indian stories evolve with you; their meaning shifts as you grow, reflecting the ashram system and life stages.” That layered storytelling—timeless, adaptable, deeply human—flows through his clothes too.

Daily rituals, food, and love

Suket describes himself as both an early bird and a night owl. “I’m an anomaly,” he laughs. “My best time is midnight; my wife hates mornings.”

Their story feels as spontaneous as his designs. “We’ve been married 16 years,” he smiles. “I messaged random girls on Facebook—she was the only one who replied. Fifteen months later, we got married.” Their marriage—a blend of Telugu, Russian, and Punjabi heritage—mirrors his brand’s ethos: tradition meeting modernity in harmony.

Sustainability and luxury

When asked about the fashion industry’s favourite buzzwords, Suket is candid. “Both ‘sustainability’ and ‘luxury’ are overused. Sustainability was what our grandmothers practiced naturally—no waste, no excess. Indian fashion can be luxurious and sustainable; the two aren’t opposites.” This grounded sensibility reflects in his work—craftsmanship without excess, beauty without waste.

A romantic comedy

If this collection were a film, Suket knows exactly what it would be. “A romantic comedy,” he says without hesitation. “It has humour, warmth, heart—lightness with strength, whimsy with power.”

The Autumn/Winter ’25 collection is a fusion of heritage and imagination, crafted for those who appreciate subtlety and story.

— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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