Anita Dongre elevates Indian craftsmanship to couture in AW25 Crafts of India
Anita Dongre has long been a force of quiet revolution in Indian fashion— a designer who balances beauty with purpose, tradition with modernity. With her new Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Crafts of India, she revisits the country’s rich textile heritage through a contemporary lens, spotlighting crafts like ajrakh, bandhani, banarasi silk, and pichhwai.
Building an ethical fashion empire
From her eco-conscious home overlooking a forest, the designer leads a life as intentional as her design philosophy—growing her own food, driving electric, and practising mindful consumption. The founder of the Rs 1,000-crore House of Anita Dongre, with brands like AND, Global Desi, Pinkcity, and Grassroot, she has built an empire on ethics as much as aesthetics. Her collaboration with SEWA continues to empower women artisans across rural India, proving that fashion can uplift as much as it adorns.
She opens up about the inspiration behind Crafts of India, her deep bond with artisans, the personal memories that shape her work, and the legacy she hopes to leave behind.
What does it take to reinterpret tradition without diluting its soul?
It takes a lot of respect and restraint. When you work with a craft that has existed for centuries, you have to approach it with sensitivity. I spend time understanding the technique, its rhythm and meaning, and then translate that into silhouettes and colours that feel modern. The beauty of a craft lies in the hand that creates it. My role is to preserve that essence while giving it a fresh voice.
Each textile in this collection carries a legacy. Did any craft challenge or surprise you during the making of this line?
Working with crafts is always challenging. Changes in the weather, co-ordinating with artisans across the country, working around each artisans skillset—it’s always an exciting and rewarding journey.
How did you ensure that each craft kept its identity while sitting cohesively within a single line?
Each craft has its own personality. Ajrakh has a beautiful geometry, bandhani has a beautiful pattern, Banarasi has sheen, and pichhwai has a sense of calm. Together, they create one story of India. Diverse, rooted, yet deeply connected.
Crafts of India features embroidery done by SEWA artisans. Can you tell us more about your association with SEWA?
My relationship with the women of SEWA is very special. They create exquisite hand-embroidered pieces that take months to finish. They work from the comfort of their homes, which allows them to preserve their craft while supporting their families. It’s incredibly fulfilling to see how their work contributes to their community’s growth. To me, that’s what true social sustainability looks like—empowering women through their craft.
Jewel tones, sunlit hues, and contemporary silhouettes—what stories are these colour and design choices telling?
They all tell the story of the woman of today. It allows her to move freely and feel empowered . It’s about freedom, comfort, and quiet confidence.
This collection feels incredibly intimate. Were there any personal memories or cultural moments that shaped its emotional tone?
Always. I grew up in Rajasthan surrounded by craft and colour. The sounds of looms, textures of textiles, the beauty in everyday details. Those memories always find their way into my work. This collection is a love letter to the people who make India so beautiful.
You’ve created an empire rooted in Indian heritage. How do you stay connected to the ground, with craft communities, and with your own sense of purpose?
I work very closely and collaboratively with our artisans and craft communities. For me, design is a bridge, between craft and modernity, between rural and urban India, between beauty and livelihood. It’s what keeps me grounded and grateful.
What does true sustainability mean to you—not just in fashion, but in life?
To me, sustainability is a way of living. It’s about mindfulness. Being aware of what we create, how we consume, and what we give back. In fashion, it means fair wages, cruelty-free materials, and timeless pieces made to last. In life, it’s about kindness. Towards people, animals, and the planet. It’s not a trend, it’s a mindset.
Fashion can be fleeting, but you’re building something enduring. What do you hope your legacy will be for Indian fashion and for the communities behind it?
I’d like to contribute to empowering the women artisans of our country, economically empowering them and sustaining our craft legacy. This is the purpose I work towards every day.
Rapid fire
A craft you’ve always wanted to work with but haven’t yet?
Ikat from Orissa.
The one outfit from Crafts of India you’d wear to a quiet dinner?
A bandhani sari.
Heels, flats, or juttis?
Flats.
Fabric you’d wear every day if you could?
Hemp.
Most underrated Indian craft, in your opinion?
All our hand weaves.
An artisan community that changed your perspective?
The women of SEWA.
Legacy or reinvention—what excites you more?
Reinvention that sustains legacy.
Design rule you love to break?
Light, effortless bridal wear, with pockets! Let the bride have fun.
One piece every woman should have in her wardrobe?
A handwoven or handcrafted sari.
What makes a design timeless?
When it’s made with intention and heart, keeping the maker and the wearer in mind.
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