Meet Mayank Bhutra: The young designer championing Erode’s iconic jammakaalam weave

Though Erode Clothing has a modest presence in India, its pieces have found admirers in the fashion capitals of Paris, New York, and Milan
Erode Clothing by Mayank Bhutra
Jammakaalam jacket by Erode Clothing
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Born in Rajasthan and raised in Erode, Tamil Nadu, Mayank Bhutra identifies more as a Tamilian at heart. His emotional roots are deeply tied to what Erode is best known for—textiles. As the founder of Erode Clothing, Mayank recalls how the rhythmic clatter of handlooms once felt like a disturbance. Today, it’s music to his ears.

Reviving a dying craft: Erode Clothing’s mission to empower weavers

The son of a textile manufacturer, Mayank has no formal training in design or textiles—but some passions run deeper than degrees. “Sometimes, passion is all you need,” he says. His mission is clear: to uplift the weaver community that has long sustained Tamil Nadu’s rich textile heritage.

Though Erode Clothing has a modest presence in India, its pieces have found admirers in the fashion capitals of Paris, New York, and Milan
Jammakaalam jacket with hand embroidery by Erode Clothing

“Many designers are using jammakaalam, a weaving technique over a thousand years old,” he notes. “But how many are doing anything for the weavers themselves?” At just 25, Mayank is determined to change that.

The Bhavani jammakaalam—named after the Bhavani River and the village on its banks—is a GI-tagged (Geographical Indication) artefact and a household staple across Tamil Nadu. Thickly woven and incredibly versatile, the jammakaalam carpet is used for everything from weddings and religious ceremonies to music classes and afternoon naps. And yet, this handwoven tradition is now hanging by a thread.

In October 2023, Erode Clothing made a global splash when a jammakaalam shirt was worn by television personality Tan France, best known for Queer Eye. Back home, Bollywood stars like Sobhita Dhulipala have also lent their support by donning the label’s creations.

It was during the Covid-19 pandemic that Mayank experienced a turning point. “I saw firsthand how badly the weaver community was affected—orders dropped, and there were no young people entering the trade. I felt a deep responsibility to preserve the legacy of Erode’s textile tradition,” he says.

Though Erode Clothing has a modest presence in India, its pieces have found admirers in the fashion capitals of Paris, New York, and Milan. The brand stands as a powerful reminder: if we don’t act now, we risk losing an intangible cultural heritage. It’s a call to resist fast fashion and mass production, and instead embrace conscious, meaningful design.

Mayank isn’t interested in producing seasonal collections or working with multiple fabrics. His focus is singular: to make the world sit up and take notice of one iconic weave. His latest collection, Co-rvai, is a tribute to the native cowboys of Erode—raw, grounded, and rich with untold stories.

But more on that later. This is about a young man who, without any formal design background, dared to dream big. Armed only with vision and passion, Mayank Bhutra set out to revive the jammakaalam—and to bring the weaver community along for the journey.

manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

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