Ritu Kumar on six decades of style, craft and the freedom to dress without rules
Long before fashion weeks and celebrity showstoppers became the norm, Ritu Kumar was already sketching the blueprint of Indian couture. She’s the original diva of Indian design who brought traditional Indian textiles to the global runway while keeping her feet firmly planted in the country’s cultural soil.
The woman who defined Indian couture
Over six decades, she has built not just a label, but a legacy. From bridal lehengas to contemporary Indo-Western silhouettes, Ritu Kumar’s brand today speaks to every Indian woman who desires elegance without erasing her roots. But don’t mistake her for a luxury-only designer. She has never alienated fashion and the masses. Why should labels not be affordable for a middle-class person? That seems to be her philosophy.
It began with a single boutique in Delhi, and what followed was a revolution. Ritu Kumar is credited with ushering in the boutique culture in India, a concept unheard of when she first started. What was once a niche has now grown into a multi-pronged fashion house spanning bridal couture (Ri-Ritu Kumar), Indo-Western (Label Ritu Kumar), everyday wear (aarké Ritu Kumar), home furnishings (Ritu Kumar Home), and more.
This season’s Autumn-Winter drop from Label Ritu Kumar, titled No Reservations, feels like a quiet rebellion. It’s a collection that throws out the rulebook and urges women to dress with instinct and joy. The high priestess of fashion talks to Indulge about the inspiration, her new book, and her constantly evolving fashion philosophy:
The Autumn-Winter collection is titled No Reservations. Tell us about the thought behind the name.
The title reflects a mindset of removing hesitation. It’s about dressing confidently, experimenting with textures and prints, and not worrying about rules or expectations. The collection encourages people to be comfortable and expressive in how they style themselves.
The accessories are a strong part of this collection too—tell us more.
Accessories are essential to completing a look. In this collection we focused on pieces that feel versatile but have character. Whether it’s a sling bag with botanical details or a structured belt, each item is designed to complement the layered outfits without being overpowering.
Your upcoming book is creating a lot of buzz. Can you share what we can expect from it?
The book is about my experience as a designer and how craft and culture influence fashion. It’s not a typical fashion book. Readers can expect a deep dive into processes, inspirations, and how we adapt heritage techniques for modern dressing.
How do you strike that balance of warmth without bulk, style without over complication?
It’s about fabric choice and construction. We use materials that are warm yet light and focus on layering instead of adding bulk. The cuts are simple but functional, allowing you to dress according to comfort without sacrificing style.
Can you talk about some hero pieces you think will become wardrobe staples this season?
A printed jacket featuring Indian textile motifs, flowy co-ords in natural tones, and embroidered tops that add texture without being overwhelming are pieces that easily transition across seasons. Corsets are another element we’ve included to define the silhouette while keeping the look effortless and wearable.
Label Ritu Kumar has always stood at the intersection of craft and contemporary. How has your interpretation of modern Indian fashion evolved with this collection?
Modern fashion is not about contrasting tradition with contemporary ideas but about integrating craft seamlessly into everyday wear. We use motifs and techniques in a way that feels natural and accessible, not forced.
What’s something you did differently this season creatively or technically that felt like a breakthrough?
We worked with embroidery techniques that enhance texture without being too visible. This allows the fabric and silhouette to stay clean while adding depth.
Are there any unexpected inspirations, a painting, a place, a texture that influenced this collection?
Winter landscapes and how light falls on natural surfaces inspired the colour palette and layering. I was also drawn to gardens in transition where dried flowers and fresh foliage coexist. That contrast shaped the mood of the collection.
Fashion is often trend led, but No Reservations feels like a call to trust your instincts. Would you say this is also a mindset?
Yes, trusting your instincts is essential. Fashion should serve you and reflect who you are. Experimenting and dressing comfortably without worrying about trends is what makes style personal.
How do you see Indian fashion evolving this winter? Are we entering a more relaxed, intuitive phase?
We are definitely moving toward ease and adaptability. People want clothes that are versatile and practical but also expressive. Comfort and individuality are becoming priorities.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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