Draped in Time collection revives vintage Indian crafts with modern flair
Noticing how vintage Indian crafts carried an inherent softness, restraint, and richness that felt deeply relevant today led to the creation of Ridhi Mehra’s latest collection, Draped in Time. For Ridhi, there was a desire to bring these elements back, not as replicas, but as modern expressions. As she unveils this collection inspired by vintage Indian textiles, heirloom embroidery, and antique craft, the designer speaks to Indulge about what drew her to antique tissue fabric, working with women across generations, and the shift to more sculpted and architectural silhouettes.
Mughal echoes and antique inspirations
Were there any vintage references or emotions that sparked Draped in Time?
We’ve been exploring various art forms and studying a lot of vintage references—from Mughal influences to even Greek elements. The idea was to bring together modern silhouettes with vintage inspirations. We also wanted the collection to have an heirloom quality, so we went very antique with the embroidery to create that feeling, while highlighting different forms of craft.
What Indian crafts does the collection feature?
We’ve drawn from traditional motifs and embroidery styles, developing them through techniques like nakshi and zardozi.
Your pre-draped saris have become a signature. This season, they appear more sculpted and architectural. Was that a conscious shift?
There’s still fluidity in the saris, but every season we try to do something different. This time, it’s a blend of structure and softness, especially because we’ve incorporated antique tissue.
You’ve also worked with chiffon this season.
Yes. We’re not doing too many flounces anymore, which naturally adds structure. At the same time, we’ve experimented with new drapes and sari silhouettes in chiffon, which feel very soft and fluid.
What drew you to antique tissue as a fabric?
Tissue is more structured, while chiffon brings softness. Working with both allowed us to explore new silhouettes and create contrast within the collection. It’s definitely more challenging. Tissue has a very subtle texture that comes from its shine. It’s made with zari, which is metal-based, and that’s what gives it that sheen—but it also makes the fabric harder to manage.
Texture seems to play a strong role this season.
We do explore different textures every season. With tissue, the texture is understated—it comes through its finish rather than surface embellishment. While it creates a more structured look, our silhouettes ensure a great fit and a very feminine feel.
Your work is often described as graceful, dynamic, and timeless. Has your idea of timelessness evolved over the years?
I feel it has largely remained the same. While we do incorporate new trends, we always stay rooted in classic styles. Clothing today is an investment, and I believe pieces should feel like heirlooms—something that can be passed down.
Do you still introduce seasonal elements into your collections?
Yes, of course. We incorporate trends to innovate, but there’s always a balance with classic design. Fashion moves quickly, but our clients often tell us that our pieces can be worn repeatedly—they’re not overly seasonal.
You design for women across generations—from brides and mothers to celebrities. How do you ensure inclusivity while keeping the designs distinctive?
Some silhouettes work across generations; styling really makes the difference. Gen Z might gravitate towards halter necks or backless blouses, while older women prefer higher necklines or sleeves. We maintain variety so that everyone can find something that resonates with them.
Your brand has also expanded beyond womenswear.
Yes, we introduced menswear and started bridal about two years ago. When a bride comes to us, we dress everyone—from her family to the groom’s side—so it becomes a complete experience.
Is there a colour palette that defines Draped in Time?
The palette is quite varied. We’ve worked with antique tissues, reds, ivories, and incorporated yellows as well. Red, yellow, and pink are classic colours—they never go out of fashion.
Your mother and aunt played a formative role in your journey. Does their influence still shape your work and leadership style?
We work very closely together, and their experience continues to guide important decisions even today.
Your label is largely women-led, acrossdesign and leadership. How does that collective energy shape the brand?
We’ve been a women-led brand for a long time. As we’ve grown, the team has expanded, but that sense of family has remained. We now also have men in senior roles, and I think a balance of both energies works really well.
What’s next after Draped in Time?
This is our Spring–Summer festive edit. We’re currently working on our next collection, which will launch in July, and we’re already planning ahead for the coming year.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
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