The changing preferences of modern brides have led to the birth of design labels like Mishru, which sets itself apart with its unique and refreshing bridal wear. Helmed by Hyderabadi designer Swapna Anumolu, the label has an ephemeral quality that comes alive in their relaxed and breezy silhouettes. The label is also known for its statement Mishru jaali embroidery that takes its inspiration from the synthesis of art and architecture. With all its collections, Mishru has strived to retain its strong yet playful feminine essence. The same has been reflected in its recent drop, Summerverse Volume II. The collection stands out for its exceptionally detailed embroidery marked by the usage of off-white pearls, glass beads and French knots, as well as light fabrics like gossamer, organza and tulle that radiate grace and dreaminess. We caught up with the design powerhouse Swapna Anumolu, who spoke about her design inspirations, the label’s ethos, the rise of fusion wear and more.
What is the inspiration for the collection?
At Mishru, each new collection builds on the capsule, before turning into a live archive of evergreen designs. This particular way of designing encourages adaptation in exceptional ways. In Summerverse, we created a fusion of florals and metallics — one where gold meets silver and silver melts into copper in an eclectic mix. With the latest edit, we aim to highlight the amalgamation of the strength and structure of metals with the romantic flowing nature of botanicals. This dichotomy gives rise to impactful graphic surfaces. The inspirations for the surfaces are natural patterns of botanicals and florals which we have interpreted in our own unique way.
What design techniques, motifs, and embellishments are used?
We have used various surface techniques like draping, ruching, embroidery and interesting hemlines. However, our first love is hand-embroidered surfaces. For this collection, we have rendered our interpretation of natural botanical and floral motifs by fusing traditional Indian dabka, zardosi, zari with French-knots and ari techniques in silk thread. This has translated into intricate and delicate floral surfaces.
What’s the importance of location when shooting a fashion campaign and where was this shot?
The collection was shot on the outskirts of Hyderabad at Shamirpet. The reason it was chosen is because it provides a surreal mix of manmade and natural elements. One can see groves of eucalyptus, a forest belt, and boulders providing an aesthetic template and manifesting a landscape just as we envisioned. The shoot location does help set the tone and mood for any collection. I had decided that I wanted to shoot this collection against a natural background with shades of beige, brown and green as the backdrop. I particularly wanted to showcase the play of similar hues on each other, like a bronze garment against the brown background of a forest and it has worked out beautifully.
How do you see fusion-wear picking up in the fashion landscape?
Indian fusion wear has been around for some time now and I’ve always made it a point to include Indian fusion ensembles in all my collections — like I say, ‘traditional with a twist.’ The modern Indian girl enjoys variety when shopping for occasion wear and the added events like sundowners, cocktail-sangeets and mehendis that have become staple parts of wedding celebrations across the country. This has increased the demand for Indian fusion wear. Festivals like Diwali and Rakshabandhan only add to the requirement. Nowadays, fusion-wear, I must say, is a go-to for most.
Are lines between modern and traditional wear blurring?
Fashion and design sensibilities, like everything else, will evolve to remain relevant, and there’s a new way in which we’re approaching the traditional segment. New-age Indian brides are all about an aesthetically appealing but comfortable style. That being said, ethnic clothing, though ever-evolving, will always hold a separate and important place in the Indian fashion landscape and I believe that modern clothing will grow parallel to it.
How would you define the ever-evolving Mishru Girl?
The Mishru Girl is shaped by paradoxes and contrasts. She lives in the moment and is still forward-looking. This girl can spot evolving design trends with her trained eye for aesthetics. At the same time, she is about being effortlessly herself and owning her smile all along. To sum up, our Mishru Girl is someone who loves to have fun!
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