Artists and designers frequently share a symbiotic relationship with their surroundings, drawing inspiration from their keen observations. Designer Aseem Kapoor, for instance, found himself greatly inspired by the work of artist Adolf Wölfli, which played a significant role in shaping his latest collection, Beyond Ken, showcased at Lakmé Fashion Week in collaboration with FDCI.
The designer was also inspired by Japanese facades and the art of Boro, a traditional Japanese technique where worn or tattered textiles are repaired by patching and stitching pieces together, thus extending their usability.
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Aseem's collection pays an ode to the dualities of human nature, found in the artistic creations of Wölfli, renowned for his obsessive and fantastical qualities Despite enduring a challenging life marked by extended stays in a mental institution, his art has left an indelible mark on the Outsider Art movement, celebrated for its distinctive and visionary attributes.
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Post the show, Aseem tells us how the artist influenced him, “Adolf Wolfli is renowned for his intricate layering of images and symbols. His brightly coloured abstract illustrations served as a major source of inspiration, guiding us to explore Indian dull jewel tones to create a striking contrast in our designs. Also, the incorporation of tribal moti Bharat work not only pays homage to Wolfli's interest in indigenous cultures but also aligns with the prevailing trends in global fashion movements. Further, the name ‘Beyond Ken’ as a phrase means 'beyond one's understanding' and that's what the collection celebrates – the unknown!”
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The runway was alive with models strutting in street-style fashion wearing crinkle fabrics with ruffle patterns. The ensembles also featured an abundance of layering, and unique structural shapes as seen in envelope jackets and jumpsuits. A hint of quirk was added with the introduction of Indian choli cut bra tops paired with blazer jackets for an uber-urbane yet ethnic twist.
Telling us about the making, Aseem shares, “We have worked with crapes and mushroom twill as they have an amazing fall and drape. We also used tone-on-tone monochrome embroideries which work as an additional layer on top of these fabrics. The colour palette is inspired by Indian dull jewel tones where the rich and vibrant hues pay tribute to the diverse and colourful landscape of India. At the same time, our inspiration from Adolf Wolfli's artwork adds a touch of darkness and complexity to the collection.”
Rs. 9,900. Available online and in stores.
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