Time, like an ever-flowing river, shapes our hearts and souls with its fleeting yet unforgettable moments. It carries the warmth of nostalgia, while also embracing the beauty of the present, weaving together fragments of our journey into rich, meaningful experiences. Weddings beautifully capture this essence, where timeless traditions meet the vibrant spirit of today, blending history with modernity. Fashion brand Matsya by Utkarsh Ahuja’s vintage bridal collection, Lost in Time embodies this harmony, celebrating the eternal interplay of time. as a couple embarks on this new chapter of their lives.
Aditi, the muse
A significant highlight of this collection is its collaboration with actress Aditi Rao Hydari, who recently tied the knot with actor Siddharth. The campaign showcases Aditi as a vision of ethereal elegance, adorned in the collection’s signature pieces and exuding regal charm. Among the highlights is The Royal Hydari Saree, inspired by the essence of a timeless Indian wedding.
“She is effortless, graceful, and truly embodies the Matsya spirit,” shares the designer Utkarsh, adding, “Her aura aligns beautifully with the muted, palatial, and intimate celebration we envisioned. Seeing her in The Royal Hydari Saree brought our dream of blending contemporary design with vintage vibes to life.”
Speaking about the inspiration behind the collection, the designer reveals that the goal was to craft garments that transcend eras, merging timeless charm with a fresh perspective. “We wanted to build a character within the embroideries and designs that feels eternal,” shares Utkarsh. “Parts of the garments evoke vintage allure, while others embrace a modern, contemporary vibe.” This blend of old and new encapsulates the brand’s unique outlook on bridal wear, culminating in the creation of the Lost in Time capsule.
Pastel reverie
Delving into the intricacies of the edit, Utkarsh envisioned these garments as moving paintings. “The ensemble itself serves as a canvas,” he explains, “while the embroideries — something I’m deeply passionate about — become the artwork.” For their bridal and couture collections, the designer predominantly uses silks and tissues, with some pieces featuring velvet embellishments and velvet blouses. The colour palette of Lost in Time is dominated by soft pastels, but with an earthy, muted twist — these are not the typical summer pastels you might expect. Instead, they are tarnished pastels, carefully chosen to evoke a vintage charm. “The materials and colours we select bring a sense of timelessness,” says Utkarsh. “We wanted the garments to serve as a canvas for the intricate embroideries we create. The more muted the base, the more the attention naturally shifts to the embroideries, almost as if the outfits were a living painting.”
Move over trends
When asked about the shift from traditional bright reds to muted tones in bridal fashion, designer Utkarsh shares, “It’s deeply personal. A bridal lehenga reflects who you are.”
He elaborates, “Someone rooted in tradition might choose red, while a bride with a contemporary or artsy mindset may lean toward what we’ve created. Today, it’s not about trends but about individuality. The market has matured beautifully, offering something unique for every personality.” Although the collection is muted and subtle, it is quite elaborate in terms of its embroideries and overall aesthetic. When discussing the ongoing trend of minimalism, Utkarsh reflects, “It is very subjective in how you interpret it. For some, minimalism is about muted colours, while for others, it can revolve around intricate embroideries. It’s not just about a trend; it’s about depth and personal expression.” He goes on to explain that the outfits in Lost in Time allow for versatility. According to him, these pieces give you the liberty to be bold with your appeal or to style them down if you prefer a simpler look. You can even adjust elements like the veil or dupatta to suit your own vision, making each outfit unique to the wearer.
Lost in Time features exquisite bridal lehengas, cocktail jackets paired with signature double-wing blouses, and velvet lehengas, perfect for occasions like cocktails, engagements, and receptions. For menswear, it offers short jackets, kurtas, and traditional sherwanis reimagined with a contemporary twist.
Every garment tells a story
The design language of Matsya is deeply rooted in diverse inspirations. Utkarsh’s love for travel fuels this creative journey, bringing influences from Gothic European architecture, palatial Indian grandeur, and the vibrant wilderness of Maasai Mara into his collections. “Travel opens your eyes and mind,” he shares. “It stretches the limits of inspiration, allowing us to translate these experiences into our signature embroideries and timeless designs.”
For Lost in Time, inspiration flowed from various sources — the costume museum at Jaipur’s Maharaja Palace, Maasai Mara wildlife, and the night sky. Each garment tells a story, blending vintage charm with purposeful craftsmanship. “We take pride in being an Indian brand,” says Utkarsh. “My aim is to use Indian craftsmanship to create a label with global appeal. What truly fascinates me is the endless diversity of crafts across regions and cultures in India. It’s impossible for a designer to explore every craft in a lifetime — that’s the richness and depth we have.”
He adds, “What inspires me most is the ability to take these traditional crafts and seamlessly weave them into my collections, keeping their essence alive while creating something unique.”
Freedom of expression
Utkarsh shares his opinion on blending Western and Indian influences, saying, “I believe we need to stop categorising ourselves as being torn between Western and Indian. That’s not the ideal approach when we’re looking at design vocabularies.” He says that there are so many brands with distinct design vocabularies exploring a variety of crafts, experimenting, and catering to specific mindsets and preferences. “While the inspirations may vary, I remain deeply rooted in evolving heritage crafts and vintage embroideries, bringing them into a contemporary context. I ensure my designs resonate with the modern bride and groom, staying in sync with their desires and aspirations,” Utkarsh concludes.
The designer observes the changing mindset of brides today, saying, “Brides are more empowered than ever, taking charge of their wedding and outfit choices. The decision-making has moved from family vision to personal vision.” He attributes this shift to the influence of social media and the abundance of content available, which has inspired and influenced brides in new ways. He adds, “With the wealth of content available, brides now have the freedom to express themselves, making weddings more reflective of their individuality. They are embracing colour and embroidery, giving us the opportunity to experiment and create something truly unique for each one.”
Rs 1,00,000 onwards.
Available online.
Mail ID: sakshisuresh.k@newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @kaithwas_sakshi