Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection unveiled at Paris Fashion Week was a captivating dance between transparency and form. The show, set to the ethereal sounds of the Magnificat in D Major, opened with a coffee brown sheer dress, its delicate fabric accentuated by a fur shrug and a bold black belt. This set the tone for a collection where the ‘invisible’ became the defining element.
“Clothes,” declared the show notes, “are what Anthony Vaccarello reminds us once formed the core of fashion, by rendering them invisible.” The runway flowed with an array of sheer looks, some adorned with luxurious furs or structured jackets, presenting a captivating exploration of what lies beneath.
Vaccarello’s vision for Saint Laurent places the body at the centre stage. Silky garments, thin and form-fitting, become an extension of the figure itself, blurring the lines between fabric and skin. Many dresses reached just below the knee, creating silhouettes that would be considered modest if not for their sheerness.
Transparency has always been a signature of Saint Laurent, with the brand embracing fluidity and a touch of the audacious. However, the recent collection transcended mere provocation. The sheer fabrics, rather than serving as a tool for shock value, become an ode to a woman’s unwavering confidence.
The collection celebrated the female form as a work of art, evident in the captivating wrapped dresses, showcased in shades of brown, burgundy red, and breathtaking blue. Even opaque pieces, like the silky gartered dresses, maintain a sense of fluid allure, further emphasizing the celebration of femininity.
