In times of doubt and self-searching, fashion houses often go back to their roots — to their atelier. Givenchy, in the wake of the departure of designer Matthew M Williams, did just that. This season, the designer-less house held on Wednesday a menswear show at its Avenue George V salons — an archetypical couture setting — to try to re-centre and find its voice once more. Models walked slowly past guests, like in bygone decades, for a show whose emphasis was the clothes, rather than showmanship.
This season, there was no razzmatazz, no celebrities — just a pared-down audience, nibbling madeleines, Turkish delight, and sipping champagne around dinner tables. It was a small, sometimes nostalgic display that laid bare the finesse and power of the age-old house’s famed atelier, making for a collection brimming with style, finesse, and luxury.
In the very atelier where the late fashion legend Hubert de Givenchy once crafted his most iconic designs, Wednesday served as a poignant reminder of the house’s profound ties to couture. Givenchy’s design studio showcased fine tailoring with an array of suits featuring bare arms emerging gracefully through holes inserted at the suit's underarm, while sleeves flapped elegantly on top.
This design ethos paid homage to the founder’s affinity for innovative cuts. The colour palette incorporated hues of blue, including Klein, pale, and navy, alongside grey and brown, honouring the founder’s distinctive preferences. However, the collection also embarked on explorations of sapphire, a colour so beloved by de Givenchy that he saw it as an alternative to classic black.
It resulted in a muted colour scheme for a relatively understated collection. Nevertheless, the simplicity of the designs did not equate to a lack of interest. Among the thoughtful minimalist creations was a pearl loose tunic top, part Star Trek, part ER, paired with fur chapka headwear. The melodious strains of Leonard Cohen’s “Take This Waltz” wrapped the collection in a nostalgic aura.
One particularly striking element was the reimagining of the iconic blouse blanche, capturing the essence of workwear with a couture twist. Coats and suits sported incisions reminiscent of de Givenchy’s penchant for capes.
However, amidst this transitional phase for Givenchy, certain designs, while luxurious, occasionally felt somewhat disconnected, mirroring the house’s ongoing journey to redefine itself. The show left fashion enthusiasts anticipating its next move — the choice of a successor to Williams, who will undoubtedly have the challenge of steering this venerable fashion house into its next chapter.