Angad Singh reinvents the sari with his latest Patola - The Provocateur collection

Emerging designer Angad Singh sets the fashion world ablaze with his latest collection, Patola — The Provocateur. Gone are the days of the sari as solely an heirloom or everyday wear. Angad’s vision transforms India’s treasured garment into a showstopping evening gown, perfect for the modern woman. Indulge sits down with the designer to delve deeper into this captivating collection.

The Provocateur challenges traditional perceptions of the sari. Can you elaborate on the inspiration behind this?

Traditionally, the sari is either a cherished heirloom or a functional garment. In Patola — The Provocateur, we’ve transformed it into an evening wear masterpiece. We utilise modern embroidery techniques that pay homage to heritage. The plunging necklines and overall mood are undeniably alluring, making the wearer a true provocateur.

Can you tell us about the specific techniques used?

Wearability is key for today’s audience. We’ve incorporated pre-stitched drapes, perfect for young women who might not be familiar with traditional draping techniques. The embroidery itself is a beautiful fusion — classic aari and zardozi techniques are elevated with modern materials like tonal French cut and metallic sequins, crystals, and even hand-dyed pearls.

How did the influence of Sikh architecture translate into the design?

Sikh architecture is fascinating — it’s progressive and incorporates various influences. Frescos used in havelis built during the Sikh rule inspire some motifs. The flora and fauna motifs adorning the sari borders and bootis are a nod to Punjabi art and architecture. Even the abstract jaal design in the pink sari reflects the influence of Mughal architecture, which played a significant role in shaping Sikh architectural style.

The title references, Patola, a famed silk weaving technique. Are there any direct Patola influences?

Actually, no. In Punjabi pop culture, Patola refers to a captivating young woman. We chose this name because it resonates with a younger audience, reflecting the collection’s modern spirit.

This is a prêt-à-porter sari collection. How do you ensure both style and wearability?

The pre-draped saris are designed as skirts with flowing drapes that complete the look. This eliminates the need for a separate underskirt, making them much easier to wear.

Can the saris be dressed up or down?

Absolutely. The colour palette ranges from soft pastels to rich jewel tones, perfect for both day and evening events. You can even add an embroidered belt for a touch of extra flair. However, my design aesthetic leans towards maximalism, so dressing down wasn’t a primary focus here.

Does The Provocateur mark a shift in your design direction?

It’s definitely a move into evening wear. The modern embroideries developed for this collection will carry over into our next line, incorporated into couture lehengas.

Price starts at Rs 34,500. Available online.

— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin