Paris Fashion Week: Loewe’s Spring collection by Jonathan Anderson is a fusion of reality and reverie

The collection celebrated masterful design through flowing, generously draped pants and foulards, the curves swirling with a light, minimalist elegance
In frame: Pices from the collection
In frame: Pices from the collection

Ten years in, Jonathan Anderson’s reign at Loewe continues to be a journey of discovery. “This collection was about precision,” Anderson stated, “but my own interpretation of it.” The runway show itself was a testament to this philosophy, set amidst an exhibition of works by artists whose unique visions resonate with him. A copy of Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation sat beside a sculpture by Carlo Scarpa (coincidentally, scarpa means shoe in Italian), hinting at the interplay between meaning and form that would define the collection.

In frame: Pices from the collection
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Anderson's signature touch of poetic whimsy was ever-present. Imagine a scene: a structured, sleeveless pearl vest, almost sculptural in its rigidity, shimmering like an iridescent fish. This is Anderson’s mastery of ‘collaged realness’ in action, seamlessly merging art and high fashion.

The collection celebrated masterful design through flowing, generously draped pants and foulards, the curves swirling with a light, minimalist elegance. This was Anderson at his peak, crafting those exaggerated, sculptural silhouettes that have become a Loewe hallmark. The fabrics themselves, deceptive in their lightness and fluidity (cottons, wools, and leathers), showcased his ongoing exploration of materiality.

A touchstone of reality remained present: the tailored suit and pants, a symbol of the everyday office grind. However, even these staples were infused with Anderson’s signature quirk, presented in loose, relaxed proportions. Double vision belts and patent Oxfords with surrealistically long toes, fit for a fairytale Rumpelstiltskin, added a touch of the fantastical to the workwear. Was this Anderson's way of depicting a daydreaming city worker?

In frame: Pices from the collection
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This fusion of the mundane and the fantastical is what defines Anderson. The collection is yet another example of his ability to use clothing as a canvas to explore broader cultural themes, a talent that continues to draw the fashion elite, including actor Jeff Goldblum and director Pedro Almodovar.

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