Til by Ankur’s latest edit, Mirage, explores layers and knits
Couturier Ankur Verma was the winner of NEXA Presents The Spotlight at the recently concluded LFWxFDCI, where he showcased his winning collection, Mirage. Excerpts from a chat with the designer.
What’s Mirage all about?
For NEXA’s Rhapsody theme, I’ve explored layering as an expression of how we perceive textures, patterns, and colours. My theme for this year is Mirage: Unveiling the Layers of Perception, inspired by the cultural and traditional symbolism of masks and the layers they create. The collection peels back these layers—revealing the unseen, the hidden, and the stories beneath through layered silhouettes and textured designs. We’ve used handwoven and hand-spun cotton, silk Chanderi, cotton silks, and achadda fabric.
The range comprises jackets, overcoats, trench coats, asymmetrical shirts and skirts, kurta sets, saris and embroidered vests. Signature pieces also include macrame-knitted dresses, power-shouldered crop tops, and our new introduction—lungi pants or drape skirts inspired by the traditional lungi in shades of green, olives, moss, mustards, beige, teal blue, and shades of red.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
The idea is to craft garments that are versatile and valuable, with an extended shelf life. Through the use of layering, each piece is designed to offer freedom, allowing individuals to style them in multiple, unique ways that suit their personal tastes while having a broader global appeal.
You have experimented with layerings, knittings and other such techniques for the first time…
I’ve always been intrigued by the concept of layering, and this time, I wanted to dive deeper into knitting as a process. We’ve taken all our scraps and waste materials, incorporating them into the knitting process to create some truly unique looks.
What are the winter casual and party wardrobe must-haves?
Pullovers and cotton sweaters are essentials, especially for men, and oversized jackets.
How do you approach sustainability?
I believe in creating pieces that have longevity, using the right materials, and upcycling waste into textile art, outerwear, and accessories. Beyond the materials, sustainability also means ensuring our staff are paid fair wages and maintaining a healthy, balanced work environment.
Your design philosophy?
It revolves around storytelling through texture and layers. I draw inspiration from body textures, like freckles and moles, to create pieces that celebrate individuality and personal expression. I believe in the power of layering, allowing each garment to be versatile and adaptable to different styles and occasions. Additionally, sustainability is a core principle.
What inspires you?
I draw inspiration from people and their experiences. Meeting someone new and hearing their journey sparks my creativity and fuels my imagination.
Your favourite fashion icon?
The late Iris Apfel -- she embodied the idea that fashion and art have nothing to do with age or appearance. Winnie Harlow for her authenticity and confidence, and Zeenat Aman for her timeless elegance and charisma.
Upcoming spring-summer collection?
It will emphasise on "less is more" philosophy, showcasing a diverse range of styles. We’ll feature dresses, jackets, overlays, sarees, kurta sets, shirts, and trousers—each designed with versatility in mind.