Karm by Zero Tolerance highlights the hardwork of skilled craftsmen

With zero formal education in design, but with a knack for learning by just observing and spending time at various manufacturing houses for hours with pattern makers, dyers, tailors, and at finishing stations, Prakhar Rao slowly but steadily learned the tricks of the trade and when he thought he was ready, he established his studio and launched his label Zero Tolerance in 2020. The Lucknow-based label launched its debut collection, Proud Browns in the following year. From a humble beginning to now showcasing his latest drop Karm at the London Fashion Week, Prakhar has come a long way, with celebrities like Oscar-winning actor Riz Ahmed, biggies like Ananya Panday, Vijay Deverakonda, DQ Salmaan, Nikhil Chinapa and Raftaar to name a few, flaunting his creations in style.

Prakhar’s Karm consists of 11 unique and voguish looks that promote South-Asian history and heritage by using an opulent contemporary style.

The designer worked hand-in-hand with skilled artisans to curate a collection that puts their karm (hard work) in the spotlight. He says, “I believe the artisans have not been given enough credit for the exquisite craftsmanship they showcase in a contemporary landscape. With my collection, I hope to achieve the same. Each of the 11 looks is a definition for empowerment and self-expression.”

Through the use of over 3,000-year-old aari and zardozi embroidery techniques, Karm delves deeper into the idea of South-Asian representation and aims to bridge the gap between craftsmen and consumers.

“Karm is our most anticipated collection. Post Homecoming (previous collection), I have had a good experience with artisans and weaver communities in India, and I have been in awe of traditional Indian craftsmanship, but as India has been labeled a production country and the craftsmen do not receive the due that they deserve, even though so much of the production of heritage fashion houses happens in India, I decided I would put their hard work in the spotlight at our debut at London Fashion Week, hence the name Karm.”

This collection has lion motif details that “we have revived while exploring ancient Indian fabrics. It is actually a kalamkari motif that we have reimagined using the embroidery technique of aari and zardozi,” shares the designer. There are prominent patchwork and functional and rugged details too.

Talking about the colour palette used in this edit, Prakhar says, “To be honest, I do not like bright colours as much, and we have used monotones a lot—like black, white — actually off-white, its the actual colour of cotton un-dyed; we have used olive green and grey as well; to be concise, we have used earthy colours. The most interesting colour we have in this edit, apart from monochromes, is a vintage Indian colour called dhup-chav. It’s basically a technique of weaving two different coloured threads into one fabric, which gives a dual tone to the fabric. This is an authentic South-Asian technique. The dyes to achieve these colours are algae-based pigment dyes that are entirely natural, making it not just good for your skin but also for Mother Nature.”

Karm is made in entirely handwoven and hand spun cotton that has been woven by skilled artisans based in the Barabanki region in the outskirts of Lucknow. With prominent aari and zardozi details, widely practiced in the Lucknow region, the silhouettes in this collection are relaxed and functional.

Letting us in on his next edit that he has already started working on, Prakhar says, “We are coming up with five new looks for the winter season. It will surely be entirely handmade and put forward the authentic Oudh culture through a new age lens.”

Priced between INR 5,500 and INR 40,000.

Available online.

Email: rupam@newindianexpress.com

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