Rimple and Harpreet Narula’s Firangi Mahal inspired by pre-Independence glamour and cultural fusion

Fashion is deeply intertwined with history, with much of what we wear shaped by past influences. There’s no denying that the British Raj left a lasting impression on Indian fashion, blending Western styles with traditional attire. Before colonisation, Indian clothing prioritised climate and convenience, but British rule introduced European elements, especially among the royals, while commoners embraced shirt-trouser combinations. Even the timeless sari saw a transformation as blouses and petticoats, once unfamiliar, were introduced, adding layers influenced by Western sensibilities. This fusion of Eastern and Western styles has become a hallmark of Indian fashion and it still resonates today. Showcasing this glamour and an interesting cultural fusion is fashion designer duo Rimple and Harpreet Narula’s latest drop Firangi Mahal. Rimple and Harpreet need no introduction. A real-life couple, who have made their mark in the fashion world, are a name to reckon with. Their label beautifully blends couture, craft, and heritage, drawing on ancient motifs, rich hues, and stories steeped in tradition. Known for their opulent bridal designs, the duo also crafted the costumes for Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Heeramandi and earlier, for Padmavat, as well as for films like Housefull 4 and Bhool Bhulaiyaa 2. We catch up with the masterminds behind Firangi Mahal to dive into the intricate details and unique elements that define the collection.

Glitz & glam

“Firangi Mahal draws its inspiration from the glamour and cultural fusion of the 1920s and 1930s, particularly in pre-independence India,” Rimple shares. The collection reflects a time when Indian royals began embracing a Western sartorial style, influenced by European design houses, while still retaining their rich heritage. “The edit stands out for its deep historical resonance, seamlessly blending Mughal, Indian, and European textiles and art forms, evoking a nostalgic ode to a bygone era,” she adds. The designers’ love for travel feeds into their creative process, with history, wanderlust, and archival treasures shaping the collection and celebrating a time when fashion and identity were intricately woven together.

Firangi Mahal also takes inspiration from iconic figures such as Devika Rani, Naseem Banu, Zubeida Begum, and Patience Cooper, who were not only celebrated film stars but also fashion trailblazers of their time. Rimple shares, “These women embodied the elegance and drama of the 1920s and 1930s, setting trends purely through their creativity and art, despite the absence of digital platforms. Their public appearances often showcased a seamless blend of Western and Indian styles.” The collection channels that same glamour, with design details reflecting their signature style — elaborate saris, velvet lehengas, shararas, and ornate jewellery — evoking the grace and opulence these women represented.

Timeless crafts

A striking new direction for the collection was the seamless blending of European prints with traditional Mughal designs. Harpreet adds, “Firangi Mahal incorporates key design elements like Mughal inlay work, avian and floral motifs, and European prints, all woven together with art deco influences. We focused heavily on intricate detailing, particularly in the blouses and back of the garments, drawing inspiration from the elaborate embroidery styles worn by Indian royal women in the 1920s and 1930s.” Just as with their previous works, local artisans were integral in bringing Firangi Mahal to life. Harpreet notes, “We worked closely with artisans from various regions of India, ensuring their craftsmanship was highlighted while staying true to the historical inspiration behind the collection.” Their expertise in traditional Indian embroidery techniques, such as zardozi, chikankari, and hand-beading, was crucial in creating these exquisite pieces. “The manufacturing process involved extensive research, collecting archival material, and collaborating with our design team to translate these historical references into wearable art,” Harpreet adds.

Threads & shades

It’s truly captivating how the designers have infused their collection with such intentional fabrics and colour palettes. Reflecting on the era’s influence, Rimple explains that The Great Depression in the Western world profoundly shaped the visual landscape of the 1930s, impacting everything from clothing to postcards, posters, and even everyday items like plates and napkins. She adds, “The 1930s were defined by a colour palette that was muted, soft, and often dusty or chalky which is why we’ve chosen hues like soft ivory and champagne for our collection.” Notably, seafoam green also features prominently, as it was a favoured shade among women during that time. Rimple continues, “This era also saw a revival of femininity, which is reflected in the collection through shades of pink — pale pink, blush pink, and others — catering to the fondness our brides have for this timeless colour.” The fabrics, selected for their luxurious appeal, include delicate tulle, sumptuous velvet, and richly beaded textiles, all contributing to an aura of opulence. The collection boasts an array of couture pieces, including ethereal tulle saris, lehengas, and shararas, each meticulously embellished with sequins, crystals, and intricate embroidery.

Stories in stitches

Firangi Mahal captures the timeless glamour of the 1920s and 30s, an era where fashion was more than just aesthetics — it was an expression of identity, class, and cultural fusion. Harpreet elaborates, “Indian royals of that time embraced a delicate balance between Indian, Mughal, and Western influences, and that duality is at the heart of Firangi Mahal.” The collection brings this rich history to life through its opulent use of velvet, tulle, and intricate embroidery paired with European prints and Mughal motifs, reflecting the sophistication and status of both Indian and British royalty. By blending traditional Indian craftsmanship with Western fabrics and styles, the collection tells a story of tradition meeting modernity, embodying the way royals used fashion to assert their identity amidst a world of changing social dynamics. Shedding light on how the sartorial choices of Indian royals in the 1920s and 1930s continue to inspire contemporary fashion, especially in today’s globalised world where cultural boundaries are increasingly fluid, Rimple shares, “We truly believe that fashion isn’t just a trend; it’s an art form rooted in history. The intricacies of Indian textiles and Mughal architecture, which once fascinated even the British, are a testament to that.” This era, when India was a cultural melting pot, echoes the current global fashion landscape. The collection blends a variety of influences, from Mughal architecture, Persian carpets, and Chintz, to European elements like French laces and prints, creating a harmonious fusion. “The ability to integrate these diverse elements while preserving cultural identity can inspire contemporary fashion to embrace fusion styles, celebrating the beauty of diversity,” she adds.

Vintage visions

The designer duo often crafts elaborate costumes for period films and series, driven by their fascination with history. They cater to an audience that loves maximalism, cultural depth, and drama, drawing from their extensive archival collection of antiques and vintage textiles. Harpreet shares, “Our love for travel and collecting archival pieces has greatly influenced our work on period films like Padmaavat and Heeramandi. The scarcity of direct historical references allows us to reimagine the era, blending imagination with research.” With Firangi Mahal, the designers aim to transport wearers into a moment of history while keeping them rooted in the present.

Price starts at Rs 2,50,000. Available online.

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