Somaiya Kala Vidya showcases contemporary edits by 5 artisans from Kutch at LFWxFDCI

The Somaiya Kala Vidya show created magic on the ramp during Lakmē Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI with the creations of five artisans from Kutch who displayed their expertise with the Ajrakh print, Mashru weave, Bandhani and Batik crafts.

Launched to sustain art traditions, Somaiya Kala Vidya teaches the artisans how to give traditional craft techniques like patchwork and appliqué, natural dyeing, block printing and embroidery a modern touch through their 22-day design program.

Here’s the lowdown on what was showcased at the debut of the Somaiya Kala Vidya artisans at the 25th Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI.

Kutch craft takes the LFWxFDCI runway by storm

Eternal Ajrakh by Zaid Khatri

Zaid Khatri’s Eternal Ajrakh collection from his label Ajrakh Gharana was a journey from the past to the present and then into the future. The Ajrakh craft has been loved since the time of the Indus Valley civilization by artisans and patrons.

For Zaid, Ajrakh has not only been just a print, but a timeless craft legacy. He has often questioned if Ajrakh was eternal and if contemporary touches and traditions could unite? His innovative treatment of Ajrakh as he combined traditional block printing with new silhouettes, modern designs and styles turned Ajrakh into something timeless.

Alaicha by Amruta Vankar

Amruta Vankar’s collection zeroed in on the craft of expert weaving for her label ‘Alaicha’. Alaicha, which means Mashru in Kutchi, is an intricate weave popular for centuries. Traditionally favoured by various communities in Kutch like Ahir and Rabari women, whose

blouses were matched with multicoloured Mashru the fabrics, this weave has undoubtedly created a colourful spectrum of fashion. The distinct dotted pattern was the highlight of the weave, which has been a favourite for the ghagras and saris of the Ahir and Rabari women.

While Amruta paid homage to the glamour of Mashru weave’s essence, she reimagined it cleverly for the contemporary buyers. Bringing on the ramp a profusion of innovative silhouettes, varied colour stories and minimal aesthetics, the Mashru weave appeared in reinterpreted, bold styles.

Anatomy by Mubbasirah Khatri

Concentrating on Ajrakh, artisan Mubbasirah Khatri designed the Anatomy collection for his label Elysian. Going for an earthy palette of blue, black, red, off-white and khaki – popular colours in traditional Ajrakh patterns, the designer brought a new dimension to the technique.

Mubbasirah worked with abstract patterns that were aligned perfectly with the design philosophy.

Often inspired by nature in the past with elements like Shakha (dry branches) as well as Wabi Sabi and Kintsugi driving the creative elements, this season, the designer chose “Anatomy” and its interconnected organ systems to unveil the design story. The collection's tribute to the Ajrakh craft was perfectly synchronised with styles, silhouettes, colours and patterns.

Mystery by Muskan Khatri

Using Bandhani as the craft artisan, Muskan Khatri’s collection titled “Mystery” for her label Musk was in a magical colour story of black, and wine with multi colours. Inspired by the galaxy, the Mystery collection came alive with the story of its countless wonders and untold secrets. The dark and neon shades were aimed at symbolising the luminous beauty that was scattered through the universe. The meticulously designed motifs and patterns were inspired by the celestial formation and abstract elements of the cosmos.

The tie and dye of the Bandhani craft added a stylish contemporary twist to the variety of garments. Each entry made an impactful visual appearance and reflected the beauty of the universe.

Tradition to Modern by Shakil Ahmed

The beauty of the traditional Batik craft was unveiled on the ramp by Shakil Ahmed’s label Neel Batik for the collection titled Tradition to Modern.

Contemporary aesthetics were seamlessly merged with Kutch’s batik print. Shades of vibrant red along with popular black and white moved in perfect unison for the Saadla and Bepota. Presenting a mélange of silhouettes and styles, Shakil created four sets of Indian and western garments.

Saris were the focal point of the Indian offering, while the western designs brought an Indo-fusion cultural appeal. Texturing played a vital role along with abstract patterns, which were inspired by photos that Shakil had earlier uploaded on his Instagram page. The Tradition to Modern collection by Shakil Ahmed for his label Neel Batik spoke a fashionable language with Batik as the prime craft.