This new Hubli-based sari label brings out a collection that blends benarasi shalu with satin weaves

House of Vaarasa — its name drawn from the Marathi word ‘vaarasa,’ meaning heritage, inheritance and legacy — is a label deeply rooted in the grandeur of handloom tradition. Founded in 2019, it has carved a niche for itself in the realm of authentic pure zari handloom saris. Now, with the launch of its latest collection, Rakhumai, the brand pays homage to heirloom benarasi treasures and reinterprets them with Maharastrian sensibilities.

A Nostalgic Tribute to Indian Handloom

For the founder and creative head, Pooja Chidre, inspiration struck while going through her mother’s wardrobe. Rakhumai was born from a moment of nostalgia, discovery and an unrelenting passion for Indian handloom.

“My mother was cleaning out her closet and amidst the neatly folded stacks of saris, a particular piece caught my eye, thanks to its intricate weave, the rich texture and the sheen of zari. Curious, I asked my mother how this sari looks so opulent even after all these years. She smiled and said: ‘This is a benarasi shalu, a trousseau piece, woven to last generations,’” Pooja begins

Collaboration with Master Weavers from Varanasi

To bring this vision to life, House of Vaarasa collaborated with national award-winning master craftsmen from the Ansari community, renowned for their unparalleled weaving heritage. These artisans, based in and around Varanasi — in places like Chauk and Cholapur — have dedicated their lives to preserving this centuries-old craft.

“One of the key changes we introduced was transitioning from four-ply to two-ply weaving, making the saris significantly lighter with out compromising on finesse, durability or the richness of the weave. This allows them to drape the sari effortlessly,” the founder shares.

The Return of Satin Weave and Pure Metal Zari

Traditional benarasi shalu motifs — paisleys, peacocks and florals — have been reinterpreted with great care, staying true to their historical essence. Depending on the intricacy of the design, the weaving process of the saris for this edit took between two weeks and six months.

“In Rakhumai, we have revived the age-old satin weave, which had almost disappeared from the handloom landscape. It took time and persuasion to convince master artisans to bring it back, but the result is exquisite. Additionally, we have used pure metal zari — copper, silver and real gold — ensuring that each piece embodies true heritage and luxury,” she elaborates.

A Timeless Symbol of Maharashtrian Heritage

The benarasi shalu itself holds deep roots in both Benaras and Maharashtra, its history intertwined with the grandeur of the Peshwa era. “During the expansion of the Maratha rule under Shahu Maharaj of Satara, Bajirao Peshwa II and Nanasaheb Peshwa travelled to Varanasi. It is believed that they brought back the shalu to Maharashtra, where it became an integral part of Maharashtrian bridal traditions. With its fine silk and intricate zari work, the shalu became a favoured choice alongside paithani,” Pooja narrates.

₹12,000 onwards. Available online.