Gulmohar launches Global Bengal collection celebrating Bengal’s handlooms
In the narrow lanes of Gournagar, looms hum quietly, weaving not just fabric but the identity of a region. Gulmohar began in Kolkata with one clear aim, to keep Bengal’s weaving traditions alive and relevant. In five years, it has grown from working with three artisans to over 450 families, nearly half of them women.
The label’s fabrics carry the region’s identity, from fine Jamdani to hand-stitched Kantha, using natural dyes, hand-spinning, and slow weaving. This is fashion that keeps old skills alive, while also giving rural communities steady income. Their latest project, Global Bengal, is more than a collection. It is a call for recognition — for the craft, the makers, and the stories that travel with each piece. Co-founder Manipushpak Chatterjee shares how the label is taking Bengal’s textiles to the world, why sustainability is a daily practice, and what every sari buyer should know.
Gulmohar’s Global Bengal collection brings Bengal textiles to international fashion
Tell us about Global Bengal.
The crafts and textiles of Bengal are finally getting noticed in the global market. Jamdani and Bengal cotton have been exported before, but no one has asked about their origins or identity. That recognition is our right. Look at what happened when Prada used Kolhapuris without crediting the craft—it shows how little acknowledgement indigenous work often gets. Global Bengal celebrates local craftsmanship, tradition, and the stories of Bengal. We are taking what defines our region to a global audience.
What is the idea behind the collection?
We see it as a campaign rather than just a collection, because that helps us reach more people. The goal is to send out a strong message through our work and create something meaningful.
Gournagar is a key cluster for you, with 45 per cent women artisans. How did that develop?
When we first visited Gournagar after Covid, most people were working on power looms because that’s what paid, even if it was less. The main weaving hubs—Phulia and Santipur—were 35 kilometres away, so artisans had to travel far for work. We started with three women who agreed to work with us directly. Today, that number is 79.
How sustainable is Gulmohar’s work?
For us, sustainability starts with ethics. We ensure timely, fair payments to everyone—whether it is the weavers, tailors, studio staff, or designers. Customers get high-quality products made to last. From a team of three to 79, we have grown purely through word of mouth. Handlooms not only preserve craft but also sustain families. That, to me, is true sustainability. We also prioritise environmental responsibility through natural dyeing, hand spinning, and other low-impact processes.
What are your future plans?
We want to form an organisation that connects everyone in the handloom ecosystem, so that more people can get work, leading to regional economic growth. We will run skill development programmes and workshops. Our website will go live at the end of August so buyers can place orders directly. For me, philanthropy is as important as business growth. I constantly ask whether my work adds value to people and the planet. I have no interest in chasing fast fashion targets.
What advice would you give someone who wants to invest in saris?
Awareness is key. Many people do not realise why a Jamdani costs more. A power loom can produce 10 saris a day; a single handloom sari can take 10 days. Price and affordability are separate issues, but choose something that adds value to your life and the environment. Sustainability is also about reducing waste. If you can wear a sari for years and pass it down to the next generation, you are already making a difference.