Sakhi by Gaurang Shah: A soulful tribute to sisterhood woven in Jamdani, Kanjeevaram & Indian textile heritage

The bond between women—mothers, sisters, friends, is deeply rooted in our culture. Growing up around strong women and listening to their stories has deeply inspired me. Sakhi is my way of honouring that quiet strength and shared journey through textiles.

Through the choice of weaves, colours, and motifs. Some fabrics, like Jamdani, have delicate patterns that speak of care and time, much like close relationships. Others, like Kanjeevaram, represent strength. Every sari carries an emotion.

Sakhi means a companion, a friend, and often, a sister. It felt right for a collection that speaks of bonds between women. The name itself sets the tone — soft, rooted, and full of shared stories. The idea was to reflect the quiet strength and grace that sisterhood represents. The saris are crafted with various Indian handlooms, from the soft elegance of Kota to the rich, timeless Kanjeevaram silks. Each sari has a distinct personality, just like every woman. They are a celebration of both tradition and modernity, with each fold telling a different story. For example, the Jamdani saris are subtle yet powerful, like the relationships we form over time, delicate yet unbreakable.

Sakhi keeps the soul of Jamdani alive but brings it into today’s world. We have experimented with softer colour palettes, finer thread-work, and lighter fabrics, so that the sari feels both familiar and new.

We have worked with Jamdani from Andhra and Bengal, Kanjeevaram from Tamil Nadu, Kota from Rajasthan, and Banarasi from Varanasi. Each of these weaves from our looms brings a different expression of womanhood, and together they form a complete story.

For example, Kanjeevaram is regal, bold, and vibrant. It brings out the strength of a woman. On the other hand, Kota is light and airy, almost like a whisper, which I feel reflects a softer, quieter side of a woman’s personality. Banaras is rich in history, so it connects deeply to our roots. Jamdani is intricate, and the weaves feel like a conversation between the past and the present. When designing, I think about the personality I want to evoke and choose the fabric that best represents that.

By reinterpreting motifs and using colours that appeal to a modern sensibility. We stay true to the technique, but play with layout, fabric combinations, and silhouettes so the saris feel easy and current.

I work closely with artisans, ensuring that every weave and motif is rooted in tradition, but I always look for ways to make them more wearable for today’s woman. I use a lot of traditional motifs, but I reinterpret them, sometimes simplifying them or placing them in modern contexts. For instance, the traditional Jamdani weave can look very intricate, but I like to blend those patterns with modern silhouettes and lighter fabrics, making them comfortable for everyday wear.

For me, colour is deeply intuitive. It reflects the layers of a woman’s spirit, her strength, grace, longing, and joy. In Sakhi, each hue is thoughtfully chosen to echo those inner shades. From soft pinks and muted golds to verdant greens and deep crimsons, the palette is not just visual, it becomes a quiet extension of her presence. I see colour as a way to honour who she is, and who she aspires to be.

We use florals, birds, and vines, symbols of growth, togetherness, and harmony. The colour story moves from soft pastels to rich tones, showing the range of emotions in relationships. The soft hues in Sakhi represent calmness, warmth, and nostalgia. I have used colours like beige, soft pinks, greens, and even deep crimson to capture the emotions a woman experiences. These colours are subtle; they’re quiet, like memories or feelings that are sometimes felt more than they’re seen. The idea is to wear a sari and feel wrapped in something timeless, something that connects you to both yourself and your roots.

While every sari in Sakhi has its own personality and speaks to the spirit of the modern Indian textile connoisseur, there is a pale pink Jamdani with white motifs that reminds me of my mother — gentle, graceful, and quietly strong. Another piece, a deep red Kanjeevaram, brings back the warmth of her protective embrace. These saris carry memories, and through them, I hope every woman experiences the enduring beauty and strength of the sari.

Texture in Sakhi is woven like emotion into the fabric. The layering of silks and cottons, the interplay of fine zari and soft threads, each element mirrors the quiet strength and tender bond of sisterhood.

I want women to feel a deep connection with the fabric they wear. When they drape themselves in one of my saris, I believe they feel both grounded and elevated. There’s something very powerful about wearing Indian textiles. It is not just about the look, it’s about the feeling, a feeling of strength, grace, and pride in our heritage. It’s all of these. I hope they feel seen; that the sari speaks to them, of their memories, of their strength, and makes them feel rooted in something beautiful.

Saris are not only for occasions. When they are light, well-crafted, and meaningful, younger women can wear them with ease and pride. Sakhi is a gentle nudge in that direction.

We are keeping age-old weaving traditions alive. By working with our skilled artisans, nurtured in our looms, documenting their processes, and giving their work a new platform, we are preserving stories that are centuries old.

It is always a balance. But I believe when the story is honest and the craft is pure, the saris find their space. We do not mass produce, we create with care, and that attracts the right audience.

Every sari in Sakhi is crafted by our weavers across our looms in Andhra, Bengal, Tamil Nadu, and Banaras. The process, especially with crafts like Jamdani, is slow and deeply detailed, each motif is hand-inserted into the fabric, sometimes taking months for a single sari to be completed. It is a quiet, respectful dialogue between design and hand, where the loom becomes a space of storytelling.

The challenge was translating emotion into textile, how do you ‘weave’ a feeling? The reward is seeing a woman wear it and feel something, that quiet connection between her and the sari.