10th Anniversary Special: Hyderabad’s fashion stalwarts decode a decade of evolution, from craft-rooted designs to bold experimentation

Times change, trends come and go, but luxury remains. It’s etched in emotions, like a grandmother’s sari passed down through generations, reworked and worn with modern sensibility. Luxury is never mass-produced; it is rare, time-intensive, and priceless, a testament to the artisans who pour their heart and soul into every creation. As we celebrate a decade of excellence in fashion shaped by designers who champion textiles as well as those boldly redefining what luxury fashion can look like, we speak to notable names, and have former India captain and cricketer, Mithali Raj play the perfect muse. The India Women’s Cricket Team made history winning the first World Cup this year, but the founding stones of that history were laid by Mithali and her team.

As we celebrate a decade of excellence in fashion shaped by designers who champion textiles as well as those boldly redefining what luxury fashion can look like, we speak to notable names

In celebrating 10 years of Indulge, Mithali and the city’s fashion stalwarts say cheers to decadence.

Craft is the new cool

As a textile revivalist, Gaurang Shah has taken it upon himself to champion and preserve the country’s textile heritage. He calls himself an artiste, and rightly so. “For me, a six metres of fabric is like a canvas. And the weave technique I generally use is Jamdani, where every centimetre can hold a different design, like a painting.” Gaurang knows how to play, reinvent, and push his craft forward. One of his recent projects revolved around Lord Ganesha, where he showcased the deity across different fabrics, moods, and design stories. “Wherever design is involved, I am there. This is simply the evolution of one’s style and thought process,” he adds. The last decade has been incredibly fulfilling for him. “One of the most defining moments was our work inspired by Raja Ravi Varma, where we translated his timeless paintings into textile narratives. Similarly, our projects centered on Shrinath ji brought a devotional and traditional sensibility.” Another milestone has been establishing a live museum in the city, which is truly a unique concept. Beyond being a space for garments, it is a living celebration of craft, where people can experience the stories behind each weave, first-hand.

City of pleats

Shravan Kummar has contributed immensely to popularising the sari as a garment that is timeless, stylish, and equally modern for those who love to experiment with it. Once destined to become a medico, Shravan instead found his path in the world of fashion, reviving vintage saris and drapes from the bygone era. “The last decade has been transformative for Hyderabad. The city has developed a deeper appreciation for authenticity and craftsmanship,” he says.

For him, handlooms and saris are living expressions of Indian culture, carrying the stories, skills, and emotions of artisans. “My passion comes from the belief that these crafts deserve global relevance. I want people to see that luxury, sustainability, and heritage can blend, and that our traditional textiles are as contemporary as they are classic.”

Over the past 10 years, Shravan’s brand has grown from being craft-centric to becoming narrative-driven, where every piece tells a story rooted in culture yet tailored for modern sensibilities. “I believe my work has helped Hyderabad embrace a more meaningful definition of luxury, one that values craftsmanship, identity, and conscience over excess.”

Showcasing these weaves on national and international platforms created new opportunities for both the artisans and the brand. “While I remain deeply rooted in handlooms, I am exploring more sculptural silhouettes, new textiles, and innovative techniques with artisans.”

Looking forward, fashion lovers can expect more fluid structures, architectural drapes, and a stronger emphasis on sustainability. “There will be new directions, but the core philosophy, craft, culture, and heritage, will always remain constant,” he says.

The Kalamkari connection

While some people discover fashion out of passion and a love for textiles, for others, it runs in the blood. Archana Jaju belongs to the latter. One of Hyderabad’s most noted names, she has been at the helm of her label for nearly 30 years, making her not just an experienced but a true veteran in the world of textiles, weaving, and handicrafts.

What makes her story even more compelling is that the journey of Kalamkari within her brand is only recent. “It actually started with handlooms and handicrafts,” she shares, adding, “But when the fourth generation entered the business, we made the brand more specific and focused on identity. This shift happened after Covid.”

Textiles have always been Archana’s destiny. “I was born into a textile family, and luckily, I got married into another textile family in Hyderabad, one of the first weavers of the Chanderi handloom,” she smiles. Her passion, however, began much earlier. “Since childhood, I have loved clothes and fabrics. I would take my grandmother’s saris and transform them. Back then, there were very few designers.” Kalamkari became central to her brand because she saw a gap. “If you visualise the fashion scene, you’ll notice most people are working with bling. But what about craft-based clothing or office wear?” she asks.

Archana’s brand always leaned towards craftsmanship and sustainability, and Kalamkari offered a fresh canvas. “People were aware of textiles and art forms, but they still wanted something new,” she says. That’s when experimentation came in. “Long ago, we went on a safari and took inspiration from there; we created animal motifs on our outfits, moving away from the typical florals. Then we started developing different forms of Kalamkari.” Archana’s goal was to make craft clothing relevant for young professionals, something they could wear to the office or in daily life. “We’re trying to experiment with different art forms on different materials,” she explains.

Today, the brand offers everything from office wear, resort wear to haldi themes and bespoke customisations. “Resort wear is our recent addition,” she tells us. For Archana, the city holds a unique place in India’s textile ecosystem. “Hyderabadis are rooted; they understand their crafts. We don’t have to explain what pen Kalamkari is; they already know what they’re buying.”

Turning stories into silhouettes

Designer Swathi Veldandi’s label is entering its 10th year, and she tells us, “Over the last decade, Hyderabad has transformed not just in infrastructure, but in mindset. Earlier, fashion here was more conservative, but today, women are confident, experimental, and very aware of global trends while still valuing our rich heritage.”

Swathi’s journey has been both humbling and exciting. “From a small vision to building a studio that women trust for their most special moments — it’s deeply emotional and fulfilling. I truly believe the journey shaped me as much as I shaped the brand.” Swathi loves creating designs that balance tradition and modernity with intricate hand embroidery, storytelling through motifs, and rich fabrics.

“My brand is born out of pure passion for design and a strong desire to create something personal and meaningful. Initially, it was about taking small custom orders, understanding clients thoroughly, and creating pieces that reflected their story,” she adds. Over time, it has evolved from made-to-order outfits to curated collections with strong concepts, identity, and craftsmanship.

Every year taught Swathi something about fabric, technique, people and most importantly, patience. “One of my most special collections includes Phoenix Heirloom, inspired by women warriors and queens. It wasn’t just about fashion, but about strength, softness and resilience,” she says. Swathi also mentions Mirza, and why it’s close to her heart. For the edit, she took inspiration from Qutub Minar and its architecture, resonating with the grand and intricate design language. “I research a lot before any collection, through architecture, museum visits, textiles, ancient motifs, and sometimes even music and poetry,” says the designer. Looking forward, Swathi is excited to explore more structured silhouettes, fluid and innovative drapes, and the introduction of new techniques that bring freshness to traditional craftsmanship.

Maximalism & meaning

Hyderabad is a city that embraces everything new with warmth and generosity. If you arrive here with intention, the city takes you in lovingly. Fashion designer Aisha Rao is a shining example. Her label may still be under a decade old, but her bold, maximalist aesthetic has already made waves far beyond Hyderabad.

“When I took the leap and launched my brand in 2018, it was built on upcycled luxury from day one, couture as a space where craft could move intentionally, and appliqué as the core language to bring imagination to life without waste,” she says. By 2021, as demand grew, Aisha defined her philosophy as purposeful luxury, staying true to her zero-waste foundation while scaling with structure and refinement.

As the brand expanded, so did its ecosystem. Aisha and her team moved into a state-of-the-art facility, giving them room to innovate with prints, embroidery, and construction. “With each collection, our design language matures, experimenting with colours, textures, and storytelling. What started as a homegrown label is now on global platforms, but always rooted in craft and identity,” she says.

Starting with upcycled occasion wear, the brand quickly became known for its vibrant hand-embroidered appliqué layered with aari, zardozi, and macramé. Over the years, Aisha’s collections, from Razzmatazz and Paperdolls to Matilda, reshaped bridalwear with bold colour play and maximalist whimsy. A major milestone arrived in July 2025 with Wild at Heart, her India Couture Week debut, an exuberant celebration of fantasy, craft, and colour.

Today, the label is stocked across India and internationally across the UK, USA, and Canada. Accessories are the label’s newest adventure. With Kinfolk’s The Bag Edit, Aisha introduces pieces that feel couture in detail yet functional for everyday movement. Looking ahead, the brand is expanding into lifestyle verticals, building an immersive Aisha Rao world where craft, colour, and joy spill into more moments. For the designer, Hyderabad remains a vital part of this journey. “The city has found a new confidence, a taste for design that feels global yet rooted in craft. People here value artistry, the hand behind every piece, and the story it carries.”

Mail ID: sakshisuresh.k@newindianexpress.com

Twitter: @kaithwas_sakshi

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