Vivek Karunakaran celebrates Chennai’s heritage with Idam

Vivek Karunakaran’s latest collection, Idam, launched at the recently concluded FDCI India Men’s Week in Jaipur, is a tribute to his city Chennai, to Tamil Nadu, and the very essence of home, identity, and belonging. Rooted in the cultural richness of Tamil Nadu, the collection bridges tradition and modernity through contemporary design. With each meticulously crafted piece, Vivek invites us to explore a place not just in geographical terms, but as a vibrant expression of memory, heritage, and legacy.

“Chennai is more than a city—it’s home,” says Vivek. “A place where I grew, evolved, and found my voice. The city is at the heart of my creative journey, shaping my design language with its deep-rooted history, evolving modernity, and cultural duality. The city has shaped my appreciation for garments that feel natural, functional, and timeless.”

At the core of Idam lies an ode to the city of Chennai, a place where the past is ever-present, yet always intertwining with the present. Vivek’s work speaks to the city’s seamless ability to balance its rich heritage with contemporary flair—a theme reflected throughout the collection.

For Vivek, Chennai’s history and its language—Tamil—serve as profound sources of inspiration. “Language defines a place, and for me, Tamil is the heartbeat of Chennai,” he explains. “Its rhythm, its depth, its poetry—each syllable carries the weight of centuries.”

Among the treasures of Tamil literature, the Thirukkural stands out, its wisdom timeless, guiding both life and morality. This literary masterpiece has been reimagined in Idam, with its verses etched onto fabrics, transformed into symbolic textures, and woven into the very fabric of Vivek’s designs.

The collection fuses classical elements with contemporary silhouettes, celebrating the state’s deep textile legacy, especially the renowned Kanjeevaram silk. “Tamil Nadu’s textile legacy is unparalleled—it’s a tapestry of heritage, craftsmanship, and cultural identity,” he says. He has reinterpreted Kanjeevaram silk in innovative ways, using the fabric in structured jackets, fluid drapes, and unexpected detailing, ensuring that this iconic textile transcends ceremonial wear to become an adaptable part of modern wardrobes.

Madras checks, a quintessential part of Tamil Nadu’s history, also find a reimagined place in the collection. Traditionally associated with handwoven cotton fabrics, these checks are deconstructed and reinterpreted in Idam through asymmetrical cuts, layering, and modern textures, capturing the dynamic balance between the past and present. The pattern, which has travelled far beyond Tamil Nadu’s borders, speaks not just of local tradition but of global influence—a connection that the designer finds both deeply nostalgic and forward-looking.

“Madras checks represent a bridge between the past and present. They remind me of the effortless style of men in their lightweight lungis, the vibrancy of local markets, and the global journey of a fabric that carries the name of this city,” says Vivek.

The heart of Idam also lies in its intricate details. One motif, in particular, unites the entire collection — the jasmine flower. “The jasmine is more than just a floral motif—it carries the fragrance of Tamil Nadu’s essence, its traditions, and its understated elegance,” he explains. The flower, synonymous with purity, devotion, and grace, appears across the collection, from delicate embroidery to soft, organic drapes that mimic its elegant form. The jasmine motif serves as a metaphor for Tamil Nadu itself—fragile, yet enduring; simple, yet luxurious.

“On a personal level, jasmine is a scent that evokes nostalgia—it reminds me of my early morning temple visits with my family,” Vivek reflects. The flower’s dual nature resonates deeply with the designer’s philosophy, capturing the essence of his homeland’s understated beauty and strength. Jasmine, like his designs, has a quiet presence that endures and speaks volumes.

The designer’s storytelling extends beyond textiles and motifs. The music accompanying the show, crafted by the talented Bjorn Surrao, blends traditional Tamil influences with modern electronic beats. Some of the Thirukkural verses are embedded in the track, layering ancient wisdom with a contemporary vibe that encapsulates the very soul of Idam. “The track was so good that so many people were trying to shazam it!” Vivek shares with a smile, knowing the show’s innovative integration of sound and design struck a chord.

No detail is overlooked in Idam, even when it comes to accessories. The collection features bold yet refined jewellery pieces from the South Indian brand No Name. Stunning ear cuffs, rings, and necklaces complete the collection’s looks, accentuating the understated elegance that permeates every garment. “The jewellery perfectly complements the collection’s vibe. It adds an edgy yet timeless element to the design,” Vivek notes.

Footwear, too, plays an essential role. Partnering with Hush Puppies, Vivek’s collaboration ensures that the shoes mirror the collection’s sense of effortless elegance. From open sandals and juttis to brogues, the footwear adds an element of understated sophistication that ties the entire look together.

For the designer, Idam is more than just a collection; it’s a personal homage to Chennai, the city that shaped his journey as both a designer and an individual. The collection is not just for those who call Chennai home but for anyone who carries their heritage with them—wherever they may go.

“Idam is for those who carry their roots with them, who wear their heritage with pride, and who belong—wherever they go,” Vivek affirms. The collection reimagines Tamil Nadu, infusing it with a global, modern sensibility. Through every stitch, every fabric, every silhouette, the collection stands as a living testament to the region’s heritage and its evolution.

The deep connection between Chennai’s cultural heritage and Idam is clear. “Heritage isn’t about nostalgia alone; it’s about continuity,” Vivek asserts. “This is an exploration of how the past seamlessly coexists with the present. The silhouettes draw from traditional Tamil attire but are reimagined for today’s world.” The fabrics, textures, and intricate details reflect a city that is always evolving, yet firmly grounded in its history.

The label celebrates 18 years this year, and it’s a moment of reflection, gratitude, and renewed purpose for the designer. “From the early days of experimenting with silhouettes to creating collections that blend modernity with cultural depth, every piece has been a reflection of my journey as a designer. It’s also been a journey of relationships — mentors, collaborators, artisans, and clients who have believed in the brand and its vision. The challenges, the triumphs and everything in between have only reinforced my belief that fashion is not just about clothing—it’s about narratives, emotions and identity,” he says. As the brand steps into adulthood, the focus remains clear — to craft with purpose, push creative boundaries, and celebrate the essence of individuality.

As the collection is unveiled in Chennai and across select locations, Vivek hopes that it resonates deeply with those who wear it. “I see the people of Chennai embracing Idam not just as clothing, but as an extension of their cultural identity,” he signs off.

Price on request. Idam is available at Vivek Karunakaran’s flagship store in Chennai and select multi-brand outlets across India.

(With inputs from Sharmistha Ghosal)

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