Bhawna Rao explores mind and machine in Immortal collection

In a sun-drenched studio tucked away in Gurugram, the scent of freshly steamed silk mingles with the soft rustle of tulle. Bhawna Rao, the couturier known for her sculptural gowns and meticulous craftsmanship, is perched on a stool surrounded by sketches, beads, and bolts of fabric. But what’s she talking about? Neural pathways. Algorithms. The elegant chaos of the human mind.

Fashion meets cognitive science

Welcome to Immortal—her latest couture collection that is as much an ode to innovation as it is to beauty.

Since founding her eponymous label in 2016, Bhawna Rao has been synonymous with graceful silhouettes and discreet opulence. Her flagship store in Delhi is a world of its own—regal interiors paired with personalised couture services, where every gown feels like a private story whispered in silk. But Immortal is different. It’s cerebral. Futuristic. A bold thematic pivot from her previous sea-inspired collection, Coral Carol.

“Immortal symbolises the timeless fusion of human intellect and artificial brilliance,” Bhawna explains, gently tracing a line on a fabric swatch that glints like circuitry under the light. “It’s where neural pathways meet binary networks. This collection captures the transformation from organic thought to digital precision.”

And that transformation is not just metaphorical. Each garment in Immortal charts a conceptual journey—from the soft, dreamy hues of early cognition to the sharp, metallic tones of synthetic intelligence. Gowns begin in whispers of ice blue and ivory, before transitioning into glimmering copper and dark gold—like evolution rendered in colour.

“Soft pastels represent the awakening of thought—delicate, unsure. But as the designs progress, so do the shades. Metallics like silver lilac and gold embody refined intelligence—futuristic and sharp,” Bhawna says.

This palette shift mirrors the evolution of the silhouettes themselves. Flared, flowing gowns give way to sleek fishcut and straight styles that reflect sharper, more engineered lines. The result is a wardrobe that quite literally walks the line between human emotion and machine logic.

Bhawna calls it “wearable cognition.” And it’s not just a fancy phrase. “I translated neural pathways into fine metallic embroidery and intentional seam placement. Some of the gowns have branching patterns that mimic brain synapses, while others use 3D embroidery to echo binary code. They shimmer like digital data streams,” she says.

Despite the technological references, there’s no actual wearable tech embedded in the garments—yet. But that doesn’t mean Bhawna isn’t thinking ahead.

“Smart fabrics are coming. Temperature-regulating materials, mood-reactive textiles—we’re entering an era where what you wear could interact with how you feel,” she says.

Beyond aesthetics, she’s also keenly aware of the ways technology is reshaping fashion’s future. “From virtual try-ons to 3D printing and blockchain transparency—tech is becoming the backbone of sustainability and personalisation in our industry.”

The evolution from Coral Carol to Immortal is intentional. If the former was an homage to oceanic mystique—think crystal embroidery evoking reefs and mermaid silhouettes in silk lycra—the latter dives deep into a more introspective realm.

“With Coral Carol, we explored nature’s curves and fluidity. But Immortal is about the landscape of the mind. It’s structured, intellectual. It bridges my love for delicate handcraft with a narrative rooted in cognitive science and digital futures,” Bhawna says.

Despite the grandeur of its concept, Immortal never forgets the woman wearing it. Whether she chooses a playful flare, a body-skimming fishcut, or a statuesque straight silhouette, she’ll find herself at the intersection of art and algorithm—wrapped in luxury, powered by narrative.

At its heart, Immortal is a collection that dares to ask: can fashion think? With Bhawna Rao at the helm, the answer might just be yes.

Price on request. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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