Aarti Vijay Gupta’s new collection is a fusion of tradition with modern fashion

In the Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Aarti Vijay Gupta brings together two seemingly contrasting elements — ancient tradition and contemporary design — in a stunning showcase of cultural reimagining. Through her lens of modernity, Aarti blends folklore, daily struggles of artisans, and the vibrancy of India’s rich artistic heritage, creating a collection that is not only visually striking but also deeply rooted in history.

Aarti’s approach has always been to challenge the boundaries between traditional art and fashion, reinterpreting centuries-old techniques for the modern world. She finds her inspiration in the myriad forms of Indian art, transforming them into wearable works of art. “My work has always been about rephrasing the narrative around traditional art and the runway — imagining how that conversation would take place,” she explains. “I represent ancient Indian art forms through contemporary fashion, bridging the disparity between old and new with fabric as my medium.”

For her Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Aarti sought inspiration from the storied traditions of Kolkata, particularly the Kalighat and Patua arts. These art forms, rich in cultural and historical significance, serve as the foundation for her latest pieces. The Kalighat paintings, for instance, celebrate the devotion of the local community to the Kalighat temple, with their vibrant depictions of deities and everyday life. She worked closely with these artisans, whose struggle to keep their craft alive is reflected in the passion infused in their creations. “The artists speak not only about their daily struggles but also the joy they find in their work. Their dedication breathes life into the art they create,” she notes.

Among the most captivating elements of this collection is the incorporation of Midnapore’s scroll paintings and Patua Feet, vivid depictions of folk narratives intertwined with songs that convey the daily lives of artisans. These artistic forms are celebrated in her designs, which bring together the emotional essence of these ancient traditions with the modern sensibility of fashion. “Kalighat and Patua scroll-paintings are renowned for their stylised depictions of folklore, and the way these artists capture the emotional and cultural essence of their surroundings deeply influenced my work,” Aarti shares.

The seminal print from this collection is a breathtaking depiction of a mother and child set against the backdrop of Kolkata’s tranquil Sunderbans. Created by Mamoni Chitrakar, this piece embodies the essence of maternal love as portrayed in the Pattachitra tradition — a love that transcends time, space, and species. Aarti explains, “The scene captures that ephemeral quality of love, framing it within the quiet gaze of the forest’s inhabitants. It’s a portrayal of love as both all-encompassing and spiritual, inherent to both mother and child.”

Aarti’s commitment to honouring the authenticity of these traditions is palpable. By working closely with the artisans of Midnapore, she has ensured that their voices and experiences are respected and faithfully represented in her designs. “Spending time with these artists, who pour their lives into their craft, was an incredibly special experience for me. I hold the authenticity of their voices in great esteem,” she reflects.

India has long been a source of inspiration for the designer, and she sees her work as a way to preserve and celebrate traditional art forms in the context of contemporary fashion. “I hope this collection opens up the world of traditional Indian art to more people,” she adds.

Email— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

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