Couturier Rohan Pariyar’s latest edit of corsets finely melds the sartorial and cultural preferences prevalent in Renaissance Italy with modern intricacies
Ishaa Saha looking stunning in Rohan Pariyar's latest edit I Medici Couture 2025Debarshi Sarkar

Couturier Rohan Pariyar’s latest edit of corsets finely melds the sartorial and cultural preferences prevalent in Renaissance Italy with modern intricacies

The young couturier is all set to launch his first store in Kolkata at Shakespeare Sarani with a swish new range of corsets called I Medici Couture 2025
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Rohan Pariyar is one of the few designers who creates perfect corsets for all shapes and sizes. His meticulously made pieces are increasingly becoming popular among the discerning fashionistas for their versatile appeal. The well made and intricately designed corsets can be worn for any occasions and with any thing—be it a fishtail skirt, a flowy one, pants or even over your gorgeous lehenga. The young couturier is all set to launch his first store in Kolkata at Shakespeare Sarani with a swish new range of corsets called I Medici Couture 2025.

Indulge unveiled the same with a cover shoot with actor Ishaa Saha. We speak with Rohan about the same.

Q

Tell us all about your new collection.

A

The new collection has been crafted keeping in mind Italy and the influence of Renaissance on the world. The Medici family’s fashion choices and their contribution to art and architecture played a central role in inspiring the silhouettes and motifs. The colours are all solid dyes in dark natural tones, as was prevalent in the 16th century. Some of the motifs are even inspired from the Catholic influence in Florence in those days.

Q

What’s the idea behind the collection?

A

The idea is to blend contemporary silhouettes with traditional Indian craftsmanship and European motifs. The collection aims at bringing Indian craftsmanship on the red carpet. The previous collection, Louis XIV, was an extremely colourful one, featuring baroque motifs, while this new line is all solid colours and architectural motifs. The last collection featured avant-garde silhouettes and crinolines, while the latest one features designs that are a lot more relaxed and red carpet-friendly.

A sangria toned pearl embellished corset with a trail skirt
A sangria toned pearl embellished corset with a trail skirt
Q

How can one incorporate the corset look in various occasions?

A

It is very easy! A corset fits all body types and is meant to accentuate the human anatomy. A corset paired with a sari goes as well as a corset paired with an A-line skirt. At the same time, pairing corsets with trousers, different styles of skirts and shirt dresses give it a new look every time.

Q

Earlier, corsets were intended to get the desired hourglass body, but now, they embrace all body types. How has the perception and intent of corsets changed over centuries?

A

Yes, it is true that a corset implies at an hour glass shape. But that is the case for all body types. Whether a size zero or a plus size, a corset embraces each and every body type and brings out the best of the wearer. Today, when I style someone with a corset, it pleases me to see how women of all body types are curious about this piece of clothing. To continue spreading the message of body positivity and acceptance, we would like to keep featuring corsets in different ways every time.

An amethyst dyed duchess silk satin corset with a two-layered skirt
An amethyst dyed duchess silk satin corset with a two-layered skirt
Q

What are the other couture options you offer apart from corsets?

A

We do all shapes and styles of skirts; we work on custom bridal orders, cocktail dresses and formals. We are also trying our hands at men’s Western wear, which we plan to roll out very soon.

Q

What are your plans for your label?

A

With a flagship store coming up next, we want to venture outside of Bengal and take our work and Bengals’ craftsmanship outside the state.

Q

What inspires you?

A

Celebration inspires me. It’s a very short life, we might as well celebrate every aspect of it.

A classic black duchess corset with an elongated tail A-line skirt
A classic black duchess corset with an elongated tail A-line skirt
Q

Who is the best dressed woman in your eyes?

A

Deepika Padukone. For some strange reason, I’ve been obsessed with her style and looks since her debut in Om Shanti Om. I feel that red carpet moment of her character, Shantipriya, in that film, inspired a lot of emerging designers like me.

Actor Ishaa Saha has her hands full this year and is excited to work with director Srijit Mukherji for the first time. The artiste takes us through her future projects and style quotient.

Q

Congratulations on bagging a role in Srijit Mukherji’s Lawho Gouranger Naam Re. What’s your role in the film?

A

There are three timelines in the film. One is a modern timeline. Another is the Binodini timeline and there’s yet another covering Chaitanya Deb’s timeline. I am acting in the modern timeline. My character is named Rai and she is a filmmaker. There are three characters in this timeline, played by Parno Mittra, Indraniel Sengupta, and I.

Q

How excited are you about working with Srijit?

A

I don’t think there’s anyone who doesn’t want to work with Srijit Mukherji. I also wanted to for a very long time. Kaushik Ganguly and Srijit Mukherji were on my bucket list. I had worked with Kaushik Ganguly, and now, finally, I will be working with Srijit too. Producers Rana Sarkar and Srijit, both thought I would be a good fit for the role. I think the character is very different and fresh. It’s not as easy as it sounds to portray someone from the modern era. I am equally excited and scared, and obviously nervous. Hopefully, I will be able to perform well under Srijit’s guidance.

An emerald green raw silk hand embellished corset with a trumpet style side slit skirt
An emerald green raw silk hand embellished corset with a trumpet style side slit skirt
Q

What else is keeping you busy?

A

I am shooting for two projects simultaneously. One is Souvik Kundu’s family drama, Tejpata with Parambrata Chatterjee and Laboni Sarkar. The other is a small role in Eken Babu Benarasey Bibhishikha. My other film, Check in Checkout will release on April 18.

Q

What inspires you as an actor?

A

The good work that is happening around me inspires me. Bollywood sometimes comes up with great projects, Superboys of Malegaon is a recent example besides Kiran Rao’s Laapataa Ladies. Even a few Bengali projects, that I’m not a part of, inspires me. I am very disciplined and focused about everything. I am always thinking how I can improve myself and be different in a role that is similar to the ones I have already enacted.

Q

How do you prepare for a role?

A

I am more spontaneous and instinctive as an actor. When I am in my costume and on the set with my co-actors, my instincts come into play. I have seen that a lot of the other actors use method acting, but I think I trust my instincts more. I cannot really murder someone in the name of method acting. I cannot live being one of my characters. Before I leave the floor, I have to leave the character behind.

Q

What are your summer fashion choices?

A

I prefer simple silhouettes. So summer equals linen, pure cotton, and any soft fabric that will not irritate my skin. Both prints and colours work for me. I wear a lot of cotton shorts, cotton frocks, or long boho dresses. Summer means minimal makeup, minimal jewelleries, linen saris, cotton saris, mulmul saris, and maybe a shirt on top of sleeveless clothes for protection from the sun.

Actor Ishaa Saha showcases couturier Rohan Pariyar’s new corset collection that melds Renaissance influences with contemporary elegance
Actor Ishaa Saha showcases couturier Rohan Pariyar’s new corset collection that melds Renaissance influences with contemporary elegance
Q

What about occasion or wedding wear?

A

I hate wearing gowns. I find them very uncomfortable. I am not tall, so I have trouble carrying one. It’s also bothersome to sit down because of the cancan. I am more comfortable in a sari. I can even run and jump in saris. It can be ready to wear, designer drapes, or even cocktail saris. Salwars also work well but it has to be ethnic for sure.

Q

What are the must-have outfits in your wardrobe?

A

I am not dressy, but I loved the corsets that we did. I will try to incorporate these in my wardrobe. I mostly have practical clothes in my wardrobe. I like wearing loose fitted clothes. I have a lot of casual clothes, pants that I like wearing. I am a Bengali, so I definitely have saris. And since I wear ethnics also, I do have kurtas and salwars in silk and cotton.

Q

What are your summer colour shades?

A

I like pastels throughout the year. Summer is great for softer colours, they soothe the eyes also. But I also gravitate towards prints. Brighter prints look nice at times.

Q

What keeps you hydrated during summer?

A

I love juicy watermelons and muskmelons that are high in moisture content. I even carry shakalu (Mexican water chestnuts) with me to shoots. I drink a lot of water and have glucose drinks when I am shooting under the sun.

Pictures: Debarshi Sarkar

Makeup: Abhijith Chanda

Hair: Abhijit Das

Jewellery: Senco Gold and Diamonds

Location: Bombay Brasserie, Irish House, Baraka

Food courtesy: Baraka

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