Ajrakh Ki Rani by Nitya Bajaj blends tradition with bold summer hues

Rooted in the rich textile heritage of ajrakh, an ancient resist-printing technique from Kutch, Gujarat, is the inspiration behind Label Nitya Bajaj’s latest collection that reimagines this traditional craft with a fresh, contemporary twist.

Titled Ajrakh Ki Rani, this evocative new line reimagines the centuries-old textile tradition of ajrakh, a meticulous resist-printing technique originating from Kutch, Gujarat, through the lens of contemporary femininity and summer lightness.

Long celebrated for its earthy tones of indigo and brick red, ajrakh has remained a symbol of India’s rich textile legacy. But this collection dares to ask—what if ajrakh could blush?

“I was exploring natural dyes with one of my ajrakh karigars,” recounts Nitya Bajaj, founder and creative director of the label. “He showed me madder root, which yields a beautiful magenta. I asked if we could combine indigo and madder to create something new. His eyes sparkled—and soon, we had swatches in shades of fuchsia, wine, plum, and violet. It was exhilarating.”

A rich and complex visual palette

That moment of creative serendipity sparked the vision behind Ajrakh Ki Rani, a collection that celebrates bold pinks, jewel-toned purples, and ruby hues, all derived from natural dyes like madder root. The result is a visual palette as rich and complex as the women it is designed for—regal yet playful, traditional yet fearlessly modern.

From corseted saris and peplum shararas to fluid kaftans, choga sets, and structured jacket suits, each piece speaks to the modern Indian woman who honours her heritage while embracing bold new narratives. The silhouettes are light, breathable, and perfect for the Indian summer.

“This collection is especially close to my heart. We’ve worked closely with ajrakh artisans for over four years. These karigars are the soul of the craft. I’m just the storyteller. Their skill, their patience—it’s humbling. My designs are a way to honour them, to make sure their legacy continues but also evolves,” says Nitya.

Indeed, the soul of ajrakh is deeply embedded in the craftsmanship. Each block used in the printing process is unique to its cluster, each stage of production steeped in ritual and care. But Ajrakh Ki Rani doesn’t shy away from infusing this ancient art with fresh, contemporary energy. The result is a seamless dance between tradition and innovation, one that captures the spirit of today’s India—rooted, yet constantly reinventing.

The sustainability of the collection is also central to its story. “Everything about this process is organic and low-impact. From the natural dyes to the hand-block printing, it’s all slow fashion. These are garments that will last. They’re made with love and intention—pieces that can be passed on from one generation to the next,” Nitya explains.

Perfectly timed for summer festivities and bridal trousseaus, Ajrakh Ki Rani is a joyful celebration of colour and culture. “This palette is made for the summer bride who wants something different. We’re used to seeing reds, golds, and pastels—but why not wine, plum, or fuchsia? These shades are rich, romantic, and refreshingly new. They carry the joy of summer and the pride of tradition,” says Nitya.

Price on request. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin