Threads of memory: Tul Palav’s ‘Matamaal’ weaves a love letter to Kashmir

In the soft folds of fabric, in hand-done stitches that whisper stories of lineage, in silhouettes shaped by memory—Tul Palav is not just a fashion label, it is a reclamation, a movement, a love letter to Kashmir and the women who continue to hold it up. Founded in 2015 by Iqra Ahmad, Tul Palav is both resistance and revival—where every thread is purposeful, every design is rooted, and every collection becomes a cultural archive stitched in elegance and strength.

Where the chinar falls, fashion rises

The latest collection, Matamaal, arrives like a memory wrapped in cotton and silk, its name evoking the warmth of maternal homes and the echo of shared stories passed down through generations. “Matamaal is a deeply personal collection rooted in memory and identity,” says Iqra. “The idea took shape during a visit to my maternal home—Matamaal means ‘grandmother’s house’ in Kashmiri. The warmth, the faded walnut wood, the scent of noon chai—it all sparked a longing to capture that nostalgia in fabric.” That longing finds form in Tilla and Sozni embroidery, in dusky olives and almond whites, in flowing angrakhas and pheran-inspired trenches. “We wanted to recreate the comfort of lineage and legacy through clothing.”

The silhouettes carry memory like a second skin. “We used traditional Kashmiri embroidery styles like Tilla and Sozni but rendered them with a delicate hand to suit lighter silhouettes,” she explains. Chinar leaves bloom across sleeves, kangris peek from hem borders, and paisleys wander into contemporary spaces, telling stories that don’t age. “Motifs like chinar leaves, kangris, and paisleys are embroidered in modern placements, drawing the past into the present,” the designer says.

Among the standout pieces is a Pheran-inspired trench—a confluence of outerwear sharpness and Kashmiri soul—stitched in cotton silk with meticulous Sozni, and a rose-hued floor-length angrakha with Tilla vines, dyed in the colour of dried petals plucked from Matamaal’s kitchen shelf. “These pieces are unique because they tell stories—they’re not just garments, but memory keepers.”

Iqra’s own journey from a student of psychology and linguistics to the founder of one of Kashmir’s most cherished luxury labels is steeped in resilience. “Psychology helped me understand people—how clothing can be an expression of identity and emotion. Linguistics, on the other hand, made me attuned to the nuance of storytelling. I try to bring that empathy and depth into each design,” she tells us. Her understanding of fashion is rooted in meaning, and her resolve has turned Tul Palav into not just a brand but a blueprint for women’s empowerment in Kashmir. “Being a woman in business here isn’t easy, but perhaps that’s exactly why I had to do it—to show that it’s possible.”

She didn’t do it alone. Her life partner, Rameez, left a corporate career to build Tul Palav beside her, grounding the brand with operational clarity and unwavering belief. “It wasn’t just a professional shift—it was an act of faith in me, in Tul Palav, and in our shared dream.”

Every Tul Palav piece is layered in intentionality—from fabric to finish. “We are constantly walking that line between heritage and modernity,” she says. “Pairing a hand-embroidered pheran with tailored pants, using Tilla in subtle geometric placements—it’s about respect without rigidity.” Natural fabrics—handwoven cottons, silks, wool—form the base, while Sozni, Tilla, and Aari lend soul. Colours drawn from Kashmiri landscapes—saffrons, lake blues, ivory, and browns—anchor the aesthetic, while the silhouettes reflect fluid strength, much like the women they dress.

And it’s those women—the ones leading the brand, stitching the seams, telling the stories—who make Tul Palav what it is. “Our all-women team brings sensitivity, resilience, and a deep sense of community. We’re not just running a brand—we’re building a sisterhood.”

Navigating political unrest and cultural resistance hasn’t been easy. “The uncertainty in Kashmir taught us to be adaptable and deeply rooted. Each challenge made us stronger. Our resilience is stitched into every garment.” From shutdowns to slowdowns, Tul Palav endured—and continues to flourish.

There have been milestones: Imtiaz Ali in a Kashmir map shirt, the quiet pride of young men wearing heritage with modern swagger, and the tearful joy of a bride in a handcrafted pheran. “Honestly, the proudest moments are quiet—the tears in a bride’s eyes, or the hug from an artisan whose skill has been recognized,” Iqra mentions.

And the future? It’s expansive yet grounded. “We’re looking at expanding into international markets where South Asian diaspora seek rooted yet refined pieces. We’re also developing a lifestyle segment—textiles for home, and possibly accessories.” But at its heart, Tul Palav remains what it has always been: soulful, sustainable, and steeped in Kashmiri pride. The collection brings Kashmir’s nostalgia, comfort, and elegance to closets worldwide. “We’ve tried to keep it accessible while maintaining the craftsmanship and quality we stand for,” says Iqra.

Tul Palav has always been about reclaiming identity—particularly for Kashmiri women. And in doing so, it’s not just reviving tradition. It’s rewriting it.

Prices start at ₹8,000 for everyday wear; ₹1,50,000 for heirloom pieces crafted in pure pashmina.

Available online.

Email: rupam@newindianexpress.com

X: @rupsjain