The new Rabari Collection brings bold patterns and earthy elegance
Jigar Mali, a fashion house that prides itself on its traditionally rooted aesthetics and distinctive use of heritage crafts, has dropped its latest festive and wedding collection, which is nothing short of breathtaking. Each ensemble is an ode to femininity, handcrafted to reflect, enhance, and celebrate India’s rich culture. Titled Rabari, the new collection draws inspiration from the indomitable spirit of the Rabari community—known for their nomadic lifestyle, and vibrant traditions.
Mirror-work, motifs, and craft techniques
The ensembles are a celebration of mirrors, stitches, and textured surfaces. Each piece is unapologetic, untamed, and impossibly regal.
Jigar Mali, founder and creative director of the brand, talks to Indulge about the inspiration, personal connections that sparked the idea, design language, and more.
What was the first moment or memory that sparked the idea for Rabari?
I remember being mesmerised as a child by women draped in odhnis that glittered under the sun, each mirror catching light like a secret being revealed. That memory never left me. Years later, while sketching, it came back vividly—the raw desert, the bold motifs, the sense of community. That’s when I knew I wanted to create a collection that captured not just the look, but the soul of those memories.
How did your personal connection to the Rabari community influence the direction of the collection?
My connection is emotional as much as visual. Growing up in Gujarat, the Rabari presence was part of everyday life—their embroidery, their colours, their jewellery. I never saw them as exotic; they were neighbours, storytellers, part of the cultural fabric. That familiarity kept me from romanticising them. Instead, I wanted the collection to be an honest homage—rooted in respect, yet translated through my design voice.
The Rabari are known for their nomadic spirit. How did that sense of movement shape your design language in this collection?
The idea of movement became central. These are not static clothes; they’re made to flow, to travel with the body. The lehengas are built to twirl with ease, the anarkalis have motif ladders that rise and fall with each step, and the dupattas are light so they float rather than weigh down. I wanted each piece to embody the rhythm of journeys—raw, unending, beautifully untamed.
Can you walk us through the craft techniques that went into creating these details?
We worked extensively with mirror-work (abhla), anchored with chain, herringbone, and buttonhole stitches to secure each reflective surface. Motifs were drawn from desert flora and protective tribal symbols. Fabrics included natural fibres, silks, and blends chosen for movement and longevity. Each silhouette was mapped with careful placement—heavier mirror clusters at hems, finer motifs around the neckline and sleeves. What looks effortless on the outside is actually a deeply disciplined craft exercise.
Were artisans from the Rabari or surrounding communities involved in the making of the collection?
Yes, and it was important to me. We collaborated with artisans in Kutch who have inherited these techniques through generations. Many of the women embroider without any traced design—the pattern lives in their memory. Their involvement not only ensured authenticity but also allowed for an exchange where traditional codes could meet contemporary tailoring in meaningful ways.
Prices start at Rs 65,000. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@Manuvipin
