Want a touch of vintage in your bridal trousseau? This collection has zardosi, nakshi pittan and more

Whether it’s through love, partnership, the idea of lifelong commitment, or even those dreamy Bollywood films and peppy vibrant tracks, we’ve grown up to understand that Indian weddings are larger-than-life affairs. Period. Let’s agree that they truly are, not just because of the never-ending planning that goes into arranging venues, inviting guests, finalising outfits and food, but also because of the emotions that bind it all together.

There’s family, connection, bonding, and something very sacred. It’s like a grand mela, where everyone comes together to celebrate the union of two people who decide to spend a lifetime with love and care. Brides, of course, take it upon themselves to look their best, and why not? It’s their big day!

Many women dream about becoming brides, carefully planning every detail of their look. While today’s brides love to experiment and add a modern twist to their ethnic wear, they still prefer holding their roots and traditions close to their hearts.

To make it even more special, many choose to wear something from their mother’s wardrobe, perhaps a Banarasi sari she once wore on her wedding day or a treasured Patola passed down through generations. It’s like brides often like to move forward in life while carrying a piece of their past, a rare heirloom, a cloth that wraps memories and stories. Considering these wedding related sentiments, Matsya by Utkarsh Ahuja releases a new collection, Vintage Bridal 2025/26, perfect for today’s brides who cherish tradition, one drape at a time.

The Vintage Bridal 2025/26 collection includes lehengas, saris and elaborate shararas

Well, we aren’t surprised that Utkarsh has tried his hands on an idea like this one. He has always stayed true to his inspirations; his designs often become the result of his travel experiences and journeys. Utkarsh’s collections are a testament to his love for reimagining traditional embroideries and craft techniques with a modern twist.

Talking about the new drop, the designer shares, “Our specialisation has always been in contemporary pastels and ivories within the bridal space.” However, after opening their bridal studios, they received several requests for more heritage-inspired colours. “We wanted to create a collection that gives brides access to the signature Matsya aesthetic while embracing culturally rooted hues. That was our intent with Vintage Bridal 2025/26. The art and techniques remain distinctly Matsya, only this time, with a vintage soul,” he adds.

The collection presents a stunning array of ethnic ensembles crafted for the modern bride. Each piece is thoughtfully created using a blend of Matsya’s signature handloom Rambagh silk and silk tissues, paired with delicate tulle veils for an ethereal finish.

Since colour plays a vital role in the collection, Utkarsh introduces a few distinctive hues and explains their significance in detail. “We came up with Matsya scarlet in search of a contemporary alternative to traditional reds. We wanted to develop a tone of red that felt truly ours, one that resonates with the modern bride yet remains deeply rooted in culture,” he shares.

The next shade, old world tangerine, draws inspiration from the rare, evocative hue of orchestra tangerine, a crimson-bitter orange ink celebrated for its musical warmth and nostalgic brilliance. “Finally, we introduced smokey sandstone, inspired by naturally aged rocks. It captures the depth of tradition through its earthy tone while reflecting a sense of modern calm with its muted finish,” he adds.

Utkarsh’s collections have always leaned toward pastels, perfectly suited for day weddings and sunset ceremonies. According to him, evening celebrations call for richer tones like golds and ecru. “I don’t believe these moods can truly be balanced, as they hold a distinct contrast between contemporary and traditional, reflecting the bride’s personality and state of mind. That’s why we’ve kept the collections completely segregated.” Instead, he suggests embracing the contrast thoughtfully.

“Start with a pastel ceremony at sunset and transition into a heritage-hued sari for the reception to make a striking statement,” Utkarsh suggests.

What makes these outfits even more special is the exquisite craftsmanship that brings them to life. The embroideries feature an attractive blend of kachi dori in antique gold palettes, intricately layered with zardozi and nakshi pittan work, adding depth, richness, and elegance to every ensemble. Moreover, the main innovation or experimentation in the collection wasn’t just the embroidery or design detailing; it was in the base artwork.

Utkarsh says, “The inspiration for the artwork has instances of Tuscan villas, a royal maze, and the tree of life.” He even reimagined veils adorned with crystals, creating a striking contrast by pairing them with vintage embroidery techniques on the lehengas.

Elaborating on the point of inspiration, the designer says that it’s a continuous, interconnected cycle that resembles an infinity pool of creativity. While his designs may seem new or innovative, they’re actually rooted in layers of inspiration that trace back through time. For instance, a Tuscan painting might inspire a lehenga. But that painting itself was inspired by real Italian landscapes, and those landscapes were designed or influenced by architects or nature and so on and so forth. So, every act of creation, whether art, architecture, or fashion, comes from a chain of inspiration passed down through time, generations, and forms of art. “The most humbling question is — who inspired the original creator?” Utkarsh reasons.

The Vintage Bridal 2025/26 collection includes lehengas, saris and elaborate shararas. These outfits are not just for the D-Day, but also for Sufi nights, mehendi ceremonies or any significant moment related to one’s wedding.

That said, today’s youth is increasingly drawn to Western fashion trends, and many brides wish to give their wedding attire a contemporary twist. This often creates a dilemma: How to balance modern style with cultural tradition? Utkarsh believes that this collection resolves that very conflict, offering brides a way to craft a contemporary bridal look while remaining deeply rooted in heritage.

The campaign shoot exudes a distinct wedding charm while staying true to the brand’s refined aesthetic. When asked about it, the designer explains that the studio set-up was designed to reflect Matsya’s signature style, complete with a fireplace, velvet Victorian drapes, and vintage accents that evoke beauty and grace.

The outfits in the bridal collection reflect immense craftsmanship, with many skilled hands contributing to the creation of these unique pieces. Utkarsh shares that these artists who are now based in New Delhi, hail from different parts of the country including Bengal, Muzaffarpur, and several other small towns. “We believe in training them according to our needs, ensuring economic continuity in their work so they are fairly rewarded and the craft stays alive,” he explains.

As he concludes, Utkarsh emphasises that his focus has always been on celebrating the couple, ensuring the bride and groom shine while the garment complements rather than outshines the ceremony itself.

Prices start at Rs 2,00,000.

Available online.

Mail ID: sakshisuresh.k@newindianexpress.com

Twitter: @kaithwas_sakshi

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