Umang captures a sense of euphoria and the excitement of a beautiful tomorrow with your soulmate

While the institution of marriage means different things to everyone, at its core, it’s about finding someone you’re truly comfortable with, someone who understands you and loves you. Many find love and companionship early in life, yet the idea of formally labelling the bond or calling it a marriage feels overwhelming at the bridal wear start. It’s about embracing change, welcoming a new person into your world, stepping into a shared future, and balancing the bittersweet emotions of leaving your family home behind while celebrating new beginnings.

Fashion designer Nitika Gujral’s latest drop, Umang, connects with brides and grooms

Weddings are sacred, emotional, and radiant, filled with love, light, fashion, and style. How do you imagine yours to be? For many, it’s about grandeur and magic, adorned in exquisite bridal wear, surrounded by loved ones. From traditional celebrations set against regal havelis to modern interpretations of love stories, every detail helps create memories for a lifetime. We’ve seen celebrities turning their dream weddings into grand, fairytale affairs, set against breathtaking destinations, inspiring countless others to reimagine their own special day. Fashion designer Nitika Gujral’s latest drop, Umang, connects with brides and grooms who dream of making their big day memorable.

The designer’s muse

“The word Umang means euphoria or happiness, the very first emotion that comes to mind when one thinks of a young couple embarking on their shared journey,” expresses Nitika. She goes on to add that this phase is filled with both trepidation about the unknown future and the sheer joy of having someone by your side as you step together into an unknown tomorrow. “As a designer, one learns to connect with the underlying emotion that defines each collection and lets the creativity flow from there,” she mentions with a smile.

The joy of creation

Umang features stunning ensembles for both brides and grooms. Nitika says, “The silhouettes also vary from the classic and regal to the more ethereal, modern ones, stylised with halter blouses accessorised with flowing diaphanous veils for the modern bride.”

Grooms-to-be can find regal options with zardozi embellished sherwanis, accessorised with coordinated cummer bunds, safas (turbans) and stoles and embroidered footwear that are redolent of times gone by. “Achkans with tonal embroideries make a perfect pairing with the contemporary lehengas for the modern couple,” Nitika says. Materials like raw silk, tissue, tulle, and organza come together to craft the pieces. “Raw silk is an ideal choice as it conveys the opulence that defines our wedding wear, while the others lend a delicate, ethereal charm to the dupattas and veils,” she expresses.

What’s also interesting is the interplay of colours in the collection. Rather than restricting the palette to pastels, traditional shades, or darker hues, Umang embraces a wide range. Red, the traditional bridal favourite, appears in hues ranging from vermilion and scarlet to crimson and deep burgundy. “Our willingness to colour-customise the outfit further widens the bride’s choices. We also offer softer hues like ivory, pink, coral, and peach, as many brides today prefer pastels, especially for morning weddings and sundowners," Nitika shares.

That being said, Nitika has always been passionate about traditional craftsmanship, and her designs brilliantly showcase its essence with a modern twist. A nice reflection of the same is visible in the pieces from Umang.

The classic bridal wear and sherwanis are embellished with motifs like elaborate floral jaals and paisleys created with materials like dabka, kasab, dori, gota patti and resham. Nitika informs, “The modern silhouettes though, carry a mix of intricate geometric designs interspersed with delicate floral motifs created using beads, sequins, metallics and crystal.”

Nitika had no formal training as a designer. There were no design schools in India when she embarked on her journey post-school. “Whatever I have learned as a designer over the years has been through my interactions with artisans, weavers, and pattern masters,” she elaborates. For her, the commitment to preserving this heritage stems from a sense of gratitude toward all those whose wisdom and craft have helped shape her label and make a mark in the world of fashion. For Umang, most of the craftsmen engaged in embroidery hail from Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and Bengal. Reflecting on the same, she says, “The crafts are handed down from one generation to the next, with the master craftsmen or ustaads, as they are called, training the next generation. In my journey of three plus decades, I now have the sons of my oldest artisans running their own enterprises where they embroider our garments.”

Regal escape

The campaign shoot for Umang is grand, to say the least, with the right hints of tradition and mood. The designer tells us that the campaign was shot at the Raniji ki Baori in Bundi, Rajasthan. “The very concept of a Baori, as a special place created by a King for his consort, resonated with the underlying theme of the collection. It fit in perfectly with the saga of love and an aspiration for creating a unique world that would hereafter belong to just that couple.”

A royal romance

Discussing the evolving bridal trends and the approach to wedding ensembles, Nitika shares, “Youngsters today are deeply invested in curating the look they wish to showcase on their big day. There’s a great deal of consultation and coordination involved in finalising their wedding attire.”

While she stays abreast of changing trends, Nitika admits it isn’t easy to balance her signature style with the ever-shifting fashion landscape. “As a designer, I always trust my instincts rather than get swayed by fleeting trends. every designer, every label has its own identity. Mine lies in fusing modernity with tradition, ensuring our rich artisanal legacy continues to thrive.”

Nitika highlights some of the pieces from Umang, that are close to her heart. “I really like a red lehenga. It can be paired well with an olive green angrakha sherwani with the long flowing choga, that’s perfect for a groom.” She tells us these pieces are evocative of a bygone era, making the couple look royal together. There’s another one, a burgundy lehenga that matches with a burgundy and grey sherwani. “These are already among our bestsellers from Umang,” she concludes.

Prices start at Rs 2,15,000. Available online.

Mail ID: sakshisuresh.k@newindianexpress.com

Twitter: @kaithwas_sakshi

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