Autumn-Winter 2025 menswear embraces the navarasas through colour and craft

Sundari Silks needs no introduction, as known for their pure silk saris. They are also renowned for bringing innovation to weaves and designs. The brand’s Autumn-Winter 2025 menswear collection is no exception—it is a celebration of Indian artistic heritage. The collection draws inspiration from the Navarasas—the nine fundamental emotions in Indian aesthetics. In traditional Indian performing arts, the Navarasas are a system for classifying and expressing emotions. They are brought to life through mudras (hand gestures), postures, and colours, forming the emotional backbone of storytelling and dance, allowing for nuanced portrayals of human experience.

Emotion-led fashion for the modern consumer

This collection interprets these emotions through thoughtful design cues, subtle embroidery, colour theory, and silhouette structuring that correspond to each rasa: Shringara (love)—Green, Veera (courage)—Ochre, Karuna (compassion)—Grey, Adbhuta (wonder)—Yellow, Hasya (humour)— Ivory, Raudra (anger)—Red, Bhayanaka (fear)—Black, Bibhatsa (disgust)—Blue, and Shanta (peace) —White.

R Shankar Raman of Sundari Silks says tradition and heritage have always been at the core of the brand’s philosophy. “Many of our collections are deeply inspired by Indian classical art forms—especially dance and music—and we found resonance in the Navarasas. Translating these into our menswear collection felt like a meaningful way to celebrate our cultural roots while reimagining them through contemporary design,” he explains.

Each rasa carries its own symbolism, expressed through mudras, postures, and colours. “Drawing from these associations, every shirt in the Navarasa collection reflects its corresponding emotion through subtle hand embroidery, nuanced colour theory, and considered silhouette structuring,” he adds.

The Navarasa collection is crafted from 100 per cent natural fabrics, including pure cotton and malai cotton. “Handloom fabrics were chosen for their breathability, texture, and organic character. Each fabric hue is carefully selected to correspond with the emotion it represents, drawing directly from the traditional colour palette of the rasas,” he shares.

When asked which rasa was the most challenging or rewarding to interpret, Shankar Raman replies, “The most challenging rasa was Shanta, the emotion of peace and tranquility. Capturing its quiet essence without losing visual interest required a delicate balance. We wanted the design to evoke stillness and calm, yet remain aesthetically vibrant and contemporary.”

Shankar Raman believes today’s menswear consumers are increasingly open to artistic and emotional storytelling. “This means designing shirts that go beyond the surface: each piece in the Navarasa collection carries meaning, honouring tradition through colour, craft, and emotion,” he adds.

Prices start at Rs 3,225. Available in stores and online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

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