Designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi’s new fall-winter collection, Araquis, is all about the beauty of arid desert lands
Known for their structured and lucid silhouettes, the Delhi-based designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi are back again with an impressive fall-winter range called Araquis. Their last year’s fall collection, Loop, was an intensely dramatic range featuring such impressive silhouettes as kimono bombers, structured jackets, wide-leg elasticated waist pants, sharp jumpsuits, cocoon skirts, and embellished shoulder yokes. Known for their stylish yet subtle dressing options that are nuanced in construction and elegant in structure, what we love most about their eponymous label is the beautiful continuity in their style — and yet a refreshing newness that brings a distinct departure from their earlier collections in terms of design elements. Both Pankaj and Nidhi, as designers, love to share design narratives around strikingly bold aesthetics that are rooted in traditional craft, making their clothes attractive to a global audience cutting across all age groups.
Pankaj & Nidhi explore desert beauty in their new ‘Araquis’ line
Their newest collection, Araquis, too, is replete with all the design imprints that the label stands for — sensuous, visually impressive, and artistic. While Loop was inspired by their favourite filmmaker Christopher Nolan’s 2014 Interstellar and its underlying theme of family, love, and eternity, Araquis draws from the barren and stark beauty of the arid desert lands. Ahead of the showcase of Araquis at an ongoing fashion week in Delhi, the designers took some time out for an exclusive chat on the collection, their plans for the label going ahead, and the upcoming collections they are working on. They also shared a few looks from this new collection that have all the signature touches of their 17-year-old label.
Tell us about Araquis.
Pankaj: Our AW collection, Araquis, is inspired by the beauty of barren desert landscapes — its shifting dunes, stark beauty, and rare oases. We have fashioned fluid and architectural silhouettes in sunlit golds, earthen browns, dawn blues, and lush greens, letting fabrics with movement and sheen capture that duality of the desert which is at once barren and serene.
What was the idea behind the collection?
Nidhi: The collection captures the shifting movement caused by whispering zephyrs and the quiet awe of the endlessness that the dunes create. We wanted to translate that balance of strength and fluidity into clothing that feels both powerful and poetic — much like the warrior princesses that might rule such lands.
How different is it from your previous collections?
Pankaj: Araquis is surely bold and esoteric. This season, our woman is more mysterious and glamorous.
Monochromes and pastels define your aesthetic. How experimental have you been this time with the colour palette?
Nidhi: Soft monochromes and pastels will always be a part of our design identity. For Araquis, we have moved into a dawn-to-dusk palette that feels unexpected yet remains true to the Pankaj & Nidhi aesthetic. There are blues, sandy beiges, and chocolate and hazelnut browns, with a dazzle of patent gold.
Structures and ease define your designs. How have you interplayed between both for this collection’s silhouettes?
Pankaj: In Araquis, structure and ease are in constant harmony. Sculpted bodices and defined shoulders are balanced by billowing skirts. The silhouettes hold presence and form, yet never feel rigid.
How have occasion and festive wear evolved over the past few years?
Nidhi: Occasion and festive wear have moved towards pieces that feel lighter, more versatile and attuned to individual expression rather than just tradition. Women today want elegant but not restrictive, statement-making yet comfortable fashion. We see it continuing in that direction — a blend of craft and modernity. Women want a wardrobe that is wearable and globally relevant.
What’s rocking the luxury bridal scene? What is in demand?
Pankaj: Luxury bridal today is all about individuality and ease. Brides want pieces that are lighter, versatile and deeply personal. They want to be part of the narrative by bringing their own sense of style to the occasion.
How has your label evolved over all these years?
Pankaj: Our label has evolved into a more refined and global voice, balancing craft with modernity. Our journey began with creating intricate detailing and unique textures. Today, our focus is on creating collections that feel timeless yet ever fresh in their storytelling.
What are the plans for your label?
Nidhi: We plan to expand our international presence and will be developing a menswear line in the near future. We also envision exploring homeware as a potential extension of our label down the line.
Have you ever given thought to high jewellery offerings as a part of your wedding offerings?
Pankaj: While we primarily focus on cocktail and occasion wear, we remain open to exploring future collaborations with exciting possibilities.
What are the recent events in the global fashion scene that have really impressed you?
Nidhi: We try to seek beauty and creativity in the arts — like orchestras or sculpture — even human performance fests like those of athletes or gymnasts. Fashion is a combination of art, sculpture and human imagination. Giorgio Armani’s legacy continues to inspire us; he remains an icon for the ages.
Who are the emerging designers whose work has impressed you?
Pankaj: We applaud and cheer for every authentic voice we encounter taking its first steps in a long journey.
Is there any Indian celebrity you would like to dress up for a wedding?
Pankaj: Probably Arundhati Roy in a red outfit, if she were interested — much like the colour of the jacket of her latest book, Mother Mary Comes to Me.
Will you ever come up with menswear?
Nidhi: Yes, we are excited about the idea of exploring menswear in the future and look forward to expanding our creative vision into this space.
What are your upcoming plans?
Nidhi: We just showcased our spring-summer collection in Paris early in October at our showrooms and look forward to meeting our global buyers again soon.
