Anurag Gupta’s latest collection is a homage to the artistry of Katsushika Hokusai
Designer Anurag Gupta’s latest collection, An Ode to Hokusai, is a visual translation of Katsushika Hokusai’s artistry into contemporary fashion. The collection features 17 ensembles with each being structured, bold, and sculptural in form. There are exaggerated shoulders, clean architectural lines, and statement-making silhouettes, signature to his design language. He has developed intricate jacquards, artisanal knits, and appliqué surfaces inspired by Hokusai’s paintings. The palette draws from his works and features shades of indigo, oceanic blues, muted neutrals, and hints of coral, reflecting both serenity and strength. Anurag Gupta takes us through the edit.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
I’ve always been inspired by Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship, and Katsushika’s work has fascinated me for years. His visual language—the movement, depth, and philosophy — became a starting point. An Ode to Hokusai isn’t about imitation, but an interpretation of a 19th-century Japanese master’s work through a modern, digital, and technical Indian lens.
How is this collection different from your previous ones?
This is one of my most research-driven and collaborative collections to date. My earlier work has always been rooted in technology and structure, but An Ode to Hokusai pushes that further by integrating textile innovation and cross-disciplinary partnerships. It’s less about fashion as ornament and more about fashion as dialogue — between art, engineering, and craftsmanship. It also carries a deeper sense of calm and restraint, which contrasts with the edginess of my earlier collections.
How have you translated Katsushika’s art into garments?
We began by studying Katsushika’s compositions — especially The Great Wave off Kanagawa — to understand his movement, layering, and rhythm. Those ideas translated into fabric constructions: jacquards with wave-like undulations, appliqué mimicking brushstrokes, and gradations that echo his play with light and depth. The goal wasn’t to recreate his paintings literally, but to express his energy and storytelling through surface and silhouette.
Take us through your next collection’s outline.
After An Ode to Hokusai, I want to continue exploring the intersection of technology, art, and sustainability. We’re working on advancing the Indo Wool collaboration and introducing new textile stories that reflect India’s craft potential in a contemporary context. The next collection will be more global in outlook — still structured and bold, but with a softer narrative around comfort and adaptability.
