How this fashion brand’s unique philosophy shapes contemporary handlooms
Nestled in the heart of Varanasi, Dharki is a luxury handloom textile brand that celebrates the poetry of imperfection and the depth of artisanal legacy. Founded in 2022 by Brijesh Gupta, it draws from centuries of weaving traditions along the Ganges, where history and craftsmanship intertwine. Each creation — be it a sari, kurta, or dupatta — is a tribute to the soulful elegance of Chanderi and Katan silks, brought to life by master weavers. Inspired by nature and subtle architecture, the brand weaves old-world charm with modern design, crafting textiles that are timeless, tactile, and steeped in quiet, enduring grace. We speak to the founder to find out what makes the brand stand out.
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How Dharki is redefining Indian luxury with ancient weaving traditions and modern aesthetics
How does Dharki’s philosophy of beauty in imperfection translate into its weaving and design aesthetics?
We experiment with varied motifs. Generally, in Varanasi, motifs are very traditional, but we have started giving them a contemporary look, which is evident in our Prakriti collection in particular. We are open to designs inspired by nature or our surroundings, such as monuments. Our saris are inspired by forts, and we blend those designs onto the fabric. Hence, you can find arch impressions on various saris.
Which specific traditional weaving techniques has the brand revived, and how are they being adapted for contemporary audiences?
We have revived our old technique of ucchin weaving where there is no jacquard on handloom. This is found across our Gola collection. While preserving the essence of these methods, the brand adapts them for contemporary audiences by experimenting with modern motifs, unconventional colour palettes, and choosing fabrics suited for today’s lifestyles.
What makes Chanderi and Katan silks central to your collections, and how are these materials sourced or treated differently?
We never compromise on quality of yarn; we choose the trusted cloth manufacturers. At the centre, Chanderi and Katan silk are widely used to make saris, kurtas and duppatas. It’s the creative aspect which makes the brand stand out.
How does the natural environment of Varanasi—especially the Ganges—influence colour palettes and motifs?
I believe it entirely depends on our thought process, whether you sit in Varanasi or any other part of the world, the approach towards colour is personal. Since our brand is born beside the ghats of the Ganges, it is inspired by the soft blues, serene beiges, and the golden glow of sunset. Motifs are often drawn from the river’s life and surroundings, such as waves, lotus blooms, temple spires, and the intricate architecture along the ghats. The Prakriti collection carries such motifs.
What role do artisans play in the creative process, and how are their individual stories preserved in the collections?
Artisans are the most important part of our journey. Our weavers aren’t part of the process, they are the process. In an industry that rarely acknowledges its underdogs, we make sure their work isn’t just seen but respected as well.
Can you describe a standout piece from a recent collection and the inspiration behind it?
I believe all articles are unique in their own way, each carrying a different story, but my personal favourite is the Prakriti collection. The inspiration is derived from a Himalayan flower that blossoms once in five years, and we have taken the exact motifs and blended them onto the fabric.
How do you ensure to remain relevant and wearable for the modern Indian wardrobe?
We keep luxury handlooms relevant by blending traditional craftsmanship with modern designs. We use fabrics that are versatile and fit in today’s lifestyle. By reinterpreting heritage motifs with contemporary colours and cuts, the brand creates timeless, wearable designs perfect for both special occasions and everyday wear. Our vision is to make global presence. We are also curating some fabrics which could be used to make jackets and pants.
How long does it typically take to create a single sari or fabric piece from start to finish?
Each sari has a unique style. It usually takes 15 days to create a beautiful fabric, depending on the design and pattern involved. Some pieces take as long as three to six months to come to life.
What steps does the brand take toward sustainability and slow fashion in its production process?
We are deeply committed to sustainability and slow fashion by prioritising traditional handloom techniques that minimises waste. We use natural, eco-friendly fibers like Chanderi and Katan silk sourced from trusted manufacturers. Our brand values quality over quantity, ensuring each piece is crafted with care and longevity in mind. By blending timeless designs with durable fabrics, we encourage mindful consumption, promoting garments that are cherished for years. Additionally, we support local artisans and preserve heritage crafts, fostering an ethical ecosystem that benefits both the environment and the community.
What distinguishes Dharki’s brocade from other luxury brocade offerings in the Indian market?
Inspired by nature and architectural motifs like arches from forts, the brand blends heritage weaving techniques with modern aesthetics. This creates distinctive, elegant patterns that offer both cultural richness and fresh, wearable luxury.