Jewellery inspired by legacy: Meenu Subbiah launches new luxury lines

Jewellery designer Meenu Subbiah, who has built her brand over the past few decades by blending Chettinad jewellery with modern influences, has launched Vilasam, Vamsam, and Menaya, three luxury jewellery brands, each carrying its own aesthetic, philosophy, purpose, and authenticity.

Meenu Subbiah blends rare gemstones with modern design techniques

Meenu’s approach is refreshingly rare. Her family-run brand, Meenu Subbiah Diamonds, with its presence across Chennai, Coimbatore, Trichy, Karaikudi, and even the US, continues to manufacture every single piece in-house.

“The idea behind presenting our three brands together was to highlight their distinct design languages and show how they each tell a story across time,” Meenu explains. “Vilasam draws inspiration from Chettinad’s rich culture, Vamsam celebrates India’s traditional craftsmanship, and Menaya looks forward with a modern perspective.

The unifying factor? “Authenticity,” she says with conviction. “For me, jewellery becomes meaningful only when it is authentic, and that philosophy drives everything we create.”

Vilasam is deeply personal for Meenu. It is a tribute to her Chettinad roots, and embodies the grandeur of Tamil heritage and the symbolism in traditional jewellery. “Coming from Chettinad, traditional culture has always been a part of me. I grew up surrounded by it and observing it closely for years,” she shares. “What fascinates me about Chettinad jewellery is that every piece has a purpose... every detail carries meaning and every design holds heritage.”

This revival wasn’t born overnight. “Over 20 years, I met many historians, visited museums, and interacted with knowledgeable elders. It became more than research—it shaped me personally as much as it enriched me professionally,” Meenu recalls. “I feel fortunate to have met many people in their 80s and 90s who generously shared their knowledge.”

But it’s not just the stories that bring Vilasam to life—it’s the hands that craft them. “The unmatched skill of the aasaris has given life to the Nagarathars’ imagination,” Meenu adds. “Their motifs carry meaning that can be felt and read by anyone who sees the jewellery.”

While Vamsam pays homage to regional Indian traditions, Menaya is Meenu’s ode to self-expression. “Jewellery doesn’t always need an occasion,” she says. “There are times when I just want to feel really dressy… and that’s exactly where Menaya fits in. I think the beauty of it is that anything you can imagine can be created—and that, for me, is really the essence of Menaya.”

Her passion also lies in pushing design boundaries. Experimenting with rare gemstone cuts like portrait and pie cuts, she works with rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and tourmalines to create pieces that are “intimate and effortlessly luxurious.”

As for the future of Indian luxury jewellery, Meenu is both excited and optimistic. “Indian customers today are very aware, well-informed, and choosy. That gives us the opportunity to explore a wide variety of designs. It’s challenging, and that is exactly what makes it so exciting.”

Price starts at Rs 50,000. 144A, North Usman Road, T Nagar.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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