English-vintage aesthetic inspires this contemporary conscious label’s new edit

Drawing essence from the word ‘surma,’ a symbol of depth, purpose and refined expression, this Mumbai-based label, led by a husband-and-wife duo, offers handcrafted pieces built on the philosophy of taking a conscious pause. Dedicated to handwoven textiles and homegrown craftsmanship, Surmaye is a contemporary, slow-fashion clothing brand founded by Swati Singhal, an alumna of the National Institute of Fashion Design and Prashant Singhal in 2022.

With seven collections on offer, the label, over the years, has made its way into the celebrity wardrobes of Kalyani Priyadarshan, Kangana Ranaut, Hansika Motwani, Anu Emmanuel and others. Spring–Summer 2026 marks a subtle but meaningful shift in the brand’s narrative.

“While Surmaye has always been rooted in craft and restraint, our new collection, Unmapped, leans more into instinct — embracing a sense of openness and quiet discovery rather than a defined direction. It reflects this idea of a journey without a fixed path. It speaks to moments that unfold organically — where beauty is encountered rather than planned,” Swati tells us.

Unmapped draws from the emotional landscape of mountain journeys — particularly the transition between mist-laden mornings and the gradual arrival of spring. One can spot the interplay of English-vintage sensibility with the raw, unhurried beauty of the mountains, which forms the foundation of the collection’s visual language.

“There is a sense of stillness at the beginning, where everything feels suspended, followed by a quiet unfolding as light shifts and the landscape begins to bloom. The collection mirrors this sensibility, moving fluidly between moods, textures and forms, allowing each piece to feel both grounded and gently evolving,” the founder shares. The collection comprises 60 pieces, including easy draped saris, chic blouses, kurta sets and embroidered dresses.

“The silhouettes are intentionally fluid and adaptable — created to move seamlessly across settings, from travel to intimate gatherings, from day to evening,” she elucidates. Woven textiles form a big part of Unmapped, with a strong focus on handwoven cotton, organza, mulberry silk, chanderi and jamdani that is developed in collaboration with artisans from the Nadia district of West Bengal. “This intricate jamdani technique involves inserting each motif individually into the fabric during the weaving process — a meticulous and time-intensive practice that requires immense skill and patience,” she reveals.

The collection reveals itself through a rich tapestry of patterns and craftsmanship. Imagine structured checks and playful prints, lace-like embroideries, fine appliqué and delicate threadwork introduce softness and intricacy in hues like ivory, berry pink, mountain green, ocean blue and lime. Jamdani motifs appear floating gently across the fabric to evoke a feeling of subtle movement.

“The palette follows the same emotional journey as the collection itself. It begins with soft, muted pastel tones and gradually transitions into warmer, more luminous hues that reflect the arrival of spring. There are also unexpected bursts of colour — reminiscent of a solitary bloom on a mountain trail — adding quiet contrast,” Swati adds.

Ensembles like — The English Morning Embroidered Dress (crafted in chanderi, this sea blue and lime green pinstripe printed dress features embroidery that frames the neckline and sleeves, accented with appliqué work in handwoven silk organza and delicate blue beadwork) and First Light Embroidered Blouse (a handwoven silk organza piece embroidered with delicate floral motifs across the fabric) — recall the gentle quiet of an early garden mor ning, where soft light falls across blooming pathways. Then, there are saris that seem to have been borrowed from a fairytale. Like the ombré print Once-Upon-a-Garden and floral, berry stripe printed Hidden Orchard and Playful Flight, capturing birds drifting across the sky.

For more updates, join/follow our WhatsApp, Telegram and YouTube channels.