Rooted in the work of Frei Otto and Olafur Eliasson, these pieces translate architecture and colour studies into contemporary fashion
Every form of creative expression has the ability to influence another. Architecture, painting, colour, and craft often find new life when they move into fashion. When designers allow these ideas to guide them, garments become expressions of thought, process, and emotion. This idea is at the core of AKHL Studio’s Otto & Olafur’26, a collection shaped by artistic influence, exploration, and craftsmanship.
Otto & Olafur’26 is inspired by architect Frei Otto and artist Olafur Eliasson
The collection took shape while the brand was applying for a fashion prize, a moment that encouraged reflection. “We really wanted to do an edit that exemplified our best work, and that’s how we began conceptualising it, because we were competing against some of the strongest Indian designers of the last 10 years,” designer Akhil Nagpal explains.The process became an opportunity to revisit the ideas that had shaped the brand over time.
Two long-standing influences came sharply into focus: architect Frei Otto and artist Olafur Eliasson. Their work had been part of Akhil’s creative language since his student days. “When I started my label, these two artistes were already key, and my degree project at Central Saint Martins was based on their work.” For Otto & Olafur’26, those influences were explored more deliberately than before.
Rather than directly converting architecture into fashion, Akhil focused on shared ideas between the two forms. “We look at them as artistic influences and highlight the design principles — tension, slack, and suspension — and then apply those ideas through our handwork and silhouettes,” he elaborates.
Materials and textures were chosen through both research and intuition. “We looked at materials we’ve used historically and tried to understand which ones resonated with the inspirations we were studying,” Akhil says. Metallic finishes, architectural surfaces, and fabrics that respond beautifully to colour became central. The palette was treated with an artist’s sensitivity. “All of Olafur Eliasson’s work has such vivid and complex colour studies. So it was important for us to work with layered, tertiary shades and see how they function together without feeling overwhelming,” the designer notes.
Traditional Indian techniques remain the foundation of the brand, but are constantly reimagined. Techniques like naka tikki fringes, badla dori, ari embroidery, and TPU yarns were explored in new combinations, allowing the textiles to guide the final silhouettes.
Balancing tradition with modernity was one of the biggest challenges. “We want to modernise techniques, but still make sure they retain their beauty while creating a contemporary feel,” shares Akhil. Yet, Otto & Olafur’26 navigates that delicate line, representing the past and the future.
Prices start at Rs 80,000. Available online.
Email: anshula.u@newindianexpress.com
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