Bold short kurtas lead the new wave in Indian menswear

Kalpraag’s Kohinoor collection has been making waves—especially with its bold short kurta line. Mayank Jain, founder of Kalpraag, tells us about the brand and how the design journey began. “Kalpraag was officially launched in 2022, but my journey in the industry goes back over 20 years,” says Mayank, who comes from a textile manufacturing background. And fabric and production have always been second nature to him.

Bold colours redefining men’s ethnic fashion

After two decades of manufacturing for various brands, he wanted to create something of his own—something more expressive and personal.

“I’ve never studied fashion formally. I’m instinctively artistic, and after years in manufacturing, I felt creatively suffocated. Launching Kalpraag gave me the freedom to blend my understanding of textiles with my passion for art and design. It was a natural evolution,” says Mayank.

Kohinoor marks Kalpraag’s first short kurta line, which sold out within 72 hours. Mayank recollects the launch of the silhouette. “Short kurtas were missing from our portfolio, and we saw a clear shift in menswear trends. Men today want variety—short kurtas paired with flared or straight-fit trousers, layered with jackets. Kohinoor allowed us to explore that space with confidence and scale,” he says.

The collection is visually striking, especially in its use of colour. Point this out to Mayank, and he says, “Having supplied to many brands earlier, I felt menswear had become predictable—safe colours and repetitive designs. With Kalpraag, I wanted to break that monotony. Kohinoor celebrates colour. It’s expressive, bold, and reflects freedom—both creative and personal.”

The collection features a mix of sheesha work, cutdana, zardozi, resham, ari work, and digital embroidery. Some elements are handcrafted, while others are machine-assisted. “Everything is developed in-house—from fabric manufacturing to embroidery—allowing us complete control over quality and detailing,” shares Mayank, who uses a mix of viscose, chanderi, georgette, silk blends, tissue fabrics, and other textured materials depending on the design.

Kalpraag has a strong international presence as well. So how has the response been overseas?

“We’ve seen excellent traction in international markets, particularly in the US and the Middle East. Orders to Dubai are delivered within six days, and to the US within eight. The response to Kohinoor has been overwhelming across markets,” adds Mayank.

Prices start at Rs 12,000. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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