Rajdeep Ranawat reinvents vintage Indian aesthetics with his latest Tijori edit
“I’m the fastest designer in the country,” designer Rajdeep Ranawat begins the conversation, and we can’t help but agree. He brings out new collections every month—something essential to sustaining oneself in this fiercely competitive industry, where customers are constantly looking for something new. That said, he does not compromise on design or sustainability in his creations. Each collection is launched after thorough research, backed by a highly efficient in-house team.
Designing for a global winter: Kaftans and relaxed silhouettes
His latest collection, Tijori—which translates to “treasure chest”—draws inspiration from vintage heirlooms and the forgotten riches tucked away in grandmothers’ cupboards. “It’s inspired by old-world objects and the nostalgia of opening a family treasure chest,” he shares.
Designed with winter in mind, the collection resonates strongly with his international clientele from Kuwait, the UAE, Dubai, and Saudi Arabia, who gravitate towards his kaftans, loose jackets, cover-ups, and relaxed silhouettes. “They’re classic pieces,” he says. “As an artist, I translate my art into simple silhouettes that are easy to wear in any climate and for any body type.” Inclusivity is key—he makes it a point not to upcharge for larger sizes.
Crafted using luxurious silk velvet, Tijori’s colour palette is warm and cocooning—think blacks, deep burgundy, burnt orange, winter whites, beiges, and greys. The mood borrows from a Russian winter, echoes of Red Riding Hood, and the richness of Persian and Afghan carpets. While the prints are abstract, they remain rooted in Indian motifs.
When asked about collaborating with artisans from these regions, he is clear—everything is done in-house. “External collaborations take four to six months, and buyers today won’t wait that long. Our prints, designs, and embroidery are all produced internally.”
Interpreting vintage aesthetics for modern Indian clients comes naturally to him. “I visualise how the clothes will look on real people—not just models. That’s why our collections succeed beyond Bollywood glamour.” His clientele includes everyday consumers as well as Bollywood celebrities, many of whom shop directly at his store.
Kaftans remain central to his design language. “They’re part of our DNA. The square fabric is my canvas.” Over time, he has expanded the offering to include skirts, trousers, reversible jackets, and versatile separates.
Embroidery in Tijori is intentionally understated—antique, matte, and tone-on-tone, using materials such as antique brass, vintage coral, and black and ivory beads. “There’s no bling,” he emphasises.
His artistic vision extends beyond fashion. “I’ve worked on interiors, hotels, wallpapers, cushions, and even uniforms. My art moves across mediums.”
For festive dressing, he recommends the reversible jackets, twisted knot silk-velvet pants, and long velvet kaftans from the collection.
Reflecting on the future, he notes that recent months have been challenging due to economic uncertainties. “Many designers recycle old ideas, but we focus on unique, affordable, high-quality designs for middle and upper-middle-class clients.”
The collection uses premium silk velvet sourced from China, prized for its depth of colour and richness.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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