Forget stiff fabrics: Ajrakh on cotton twill is the contemporary textile upgrade you need to see

Okhai presents Ajrakh, a contemporary collection rooted in one of India’s oldest and most celebrated textile traditions, believed to trace back to the Indus Valley Civilisation. Ajrakh is one of the world’s oldest block-printing techniques, preserved over centuries by the Khatri community of artisans. Following the Partition of India in 1947, many families migrated from Sindh to India, settling in Barmer, Rajasthan, and Ajrakhpur in Kutch, Gujarat—now global centres for the craft.

Reimagining Ajrakh for contemporary wardrobes

Created in collaboration with artisan designer Mubin Khatri and his team in Dhamadka, Kutch, the collection brings together heritage craftsmanship and modern design sensibilities across 19 garments. Developed over eight months, it reinterprets traditional ajrakh through experimental print placements, contemporary silhouettes and innovative techniques.

Crafted in breathable cotton and cotton twill, the collection uses natural dyes and techniques such as pothai, where fabric is hand-painted with natural pigments. Moving beyond conventional block-printing, it experiments with separating outline and filler blocks to create fresher, more versatile patterns. The collection also introduces ajrakh on cotton twill, offering a contemporary take on the craft while maintaining its traditional essence.

Manorath Dhillon, who has worked extensively with Indian crafts and currently heads Okhai, says, “Ajrakh is a craft deeply rooted in history and community. Through this collection, we wanted to explore how it can evolve for contemporary wardrobes while preserving its authenticity.”

Explaining the process, Mubin Khatri shares what makes this collection distinct: “Ajrakh on cotton twill brought the craft into more wearable, everyday silhouettes like pants, dresses and crop tops. We also approached the printing differently. Traditionally, ajrakh uses a fixed set of blocks, each with a specific role—from outlining to filling patterns. This time, we moved away from that structure and worked more intuitively, using outlines and fillers independently and experimenting with placement to create fresher, one-of-a-kind prints.”

The collection also introduces a new technique developed by artisans in Dhamadka called pothai, where natural dyes are applied to fabric using a sponge, lending a softer, more organic finish. “It’s still ajrakh at its core, but seen through a new lens,” he adds.

“What makes working with Mubin so special is the way he brings constant experimentation and design thinking into the craft. Many of the print placements and design interventions in this collection come from his process of reimagining ajrakh beyond its traditional framework,” says Manorath.

Traditionally, ajrakh has been done on lighter fabrics such as cotton, silk and chanderi. In this collection, the brand explores how the craft translates on to sturdier materials.“That led us to develop a denim-inspired range, without actually using denim. Instead, we worked with cotton twill, which offers similar structure and durability while staying true to our sustainability values. We also noticed a gap—while ajrakh is widely available on softer fabrics, there are fewer everyday structured pieces. Cotton twill allowed us to bring more form to the silhouettes while keeping the craft at the centre,” says Mubin.

Prices start at Rs 3,500. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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