How Apala by Sumit turns sterling silver into wearable art

For years, summer jewellery has been defined by delicacy—tiny layered beaded necklaces, slender gold chains, and miniature charms. This season, however, maximalism is making a bold comeback, and Apala by Sumit is embracing the shift. Known for sculptural designs that blend Indian heritage with contemporary silhouettes, global art movements, and spirituality, the luxury jewellery label has unveiled a limited-edition collection that turns sterling silver into wearable art.

When silver becomes sculpture

Natraja necklaceLoved by celebrities including Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Vidya Balan, Kriti Sanon, and Alia Bhatt for film promotions, red carpets, and magazine covers, the brand was founded by designer Sumit Sawhney. Derived from the Sanskrit word apala, meaning “most beautiful”, the label lives up to its name with handcrafted sterling silver pieces layered in 22kt gold and embellished with precious and semi-precious gemstones. Drawing inspiration from mythology, architecture, travel, nature, spirituality, and world art, each creation is designed as a collectible.

Sumit enjoys juxtaposing history with modernity, allowing traditional narratives to evolve into fresh, wearable forms. “What truly defines my work is the ability to fuse rare materials, colours, textures, regional crafts, traditional techniques, and handcrafted finishes into a single creation. This layered approach gives every limited-edition piece its own identity,” he says.

Sterling silver, he explains, offers unmatched creative freedom. “It allows me to experiment with sculptural forms, intricate handcrafted details, patinas, textures, and a variety of finishes that become integral to the storytelling of each piece.” He also appreciates the flexibility the material offers during the design process. “Achieving the finest finish often involves multiple stages of carving, refining, and reworking, and silver allows us to pursue perfection without the constraints that come with the high intrinsic value of gold.”

Each piece is handcrafted by skilled Indian artisans using techniques such as repoussé, hand engraving, sculptural carving, stone inlay, stone setting, and meticulous hand-finishing. “Many of our creations take months to complete, with every element sculpturally crafted and assembled by hand. What makes the brand distinctive is our eclectic collective of artisans from different regions of India. Each brings a specialised craft honed over generations, and we thoughtfully bring these techniques together to create something original and fresh,” he shares.

For Sumit, inspiration is never forced. “From a very young age, I was drawn to painting and was formally trained in art. Growing up in a family of designers, with my mother being a furniture designer, I spent countless hours in workshops watching a sketch transform into a finished object. That process shaped the way I see design today.” Extensive childhood travels through museums, palaces, art galleries, and historic cities further deepened his appreciation for craftsmanship.

“I view the world in frames. Whether it’s an ancient temple, a weathered sculpture, royal armour, an old manuscript, or a fleeting moment in nature, I instinctively notice details others may overlook. Those impressions stay with me and eventually find their way into my jewellery.”

Although he doesn’t design around trends, Sumit is fascinated by the evolution of asymmetrical earrings. “They may be completely different, yet certain elements bring them together in perfect harmony, much like yin and yang. I believe the most enduring trend is individuality. Jewellery should express personality, not just fashion,” he adds.

Prices start at Rs 5,000. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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