Label Kaleido's Ezhaar marries Rococo influences with Indian craftsmanship

Founded by designer Priyanka Munot Rai, Label Kaleido draws inspiration from the ever-changing beauty of a kaleidoscope, where shifting forms, intricate patterns and unexpected colour stories come together to create something entirely unique. Much like its namesake, the brand constantly evolves while remaining deeply rooted in craftsmanship and individuality. Its latest collection, Ezhaar, is opulent with gilded textures and luminous embellishments. Intricate embroideries, fluid drapes and contemporary silhouettes are layered with rich artisanal detailing.

Priyanka Munot Rai on designing for the modern Indian woman

Priyanka Munot Rai, creative director and founder of Label Kaleido, tells us that Ezhaar is an Urdu-Arabic word that translates to "expression", "manifestation" or "to reveal".

To Priyanka, the collection is an expression of joy and celebration, which is why it moves away from muted tones in favour of a bold expression of festive spirit.

"The silhouettes are a declaration of how traditional Indian craftsmanship can be reinterpreted by incorporating lehriya prints, mirror work and zardozi into contemporary silhouettes. It is also about expressing individuality. The fluid, dynamic movement of the garments suggests a freedom of movement meant to help the wearer confidently express her personal style and identity.

In short, Ezhaar is meant to help the modern woman express her elegance, joy and cultural pride out loud," shares Priyanka, who has blended the whimsical, decorative soul of Western Rococo with the bold, vivid spirit of Indian heritage, translating both into effortless contemporary silhouettes.

The collection relies heavily on vibrant, jewel-toned colours and traditional festive hues, including deep reds and scarlets, vibrant fuchsia, teal, royal blue, warm orange and lime.

Priyanka reveals that she took her biggest design risk with a tailored, Western-inspired blazer-style wrap top with a notched collar, seamlessly paired with a traditionally draped dhoti-style skirt.

"It is the purest expression of my design philosophy and where I took my biggest creative risk. It is the ultimate expression of who I am as a contemporary designer, redefining power and grace for the modern woman," she shares.

The collection balances drama with wearability, and the secret lies in a deliberate give-and-take approach. As she explains, "We used high-impact design elements to create drama, but grounded them in effortless, practical structures so the wearer never feels restricted."

The collection also marries its two core goals through trompe-l'œil detailing. It delivers the visual drama of elaborate historical costuming while maintaining the lightweight, breathable wearability of modern clothing.

"We have used mock-layering illusions, depth through fabric contrasts, floating embroidery to add structure, and built-in definition through strategic embroidery placement. We have combined machine work with intricate hand detailing for the first time, and it is the ultimate secret weapon for a modern designer. It is exactly how you achieve the perfect balance of affordability, structural precision and couture luxury. When you look at Ezhaar, this combination creates a beautiful rhythm," says Priyanka, who admires the modern definition of festive wear.

"For a long time, traditional festive wear was equated with weight—the heavier the lehenga, the more 'regal' it was considered. Moving away from that mindset is a massive win for the modern woman. It excites me to design for a generation that values freedom of movement and sharp individuality just as much as it values heritage," she says.

Priyanka believes celebrity styling and high-profile wedding portraits have completely revolutionised the way occasion wear is perceived. "That shift from 'heavy and loud' to 'minimal and intelligent' is the defining characteristic of modern luxury. Celebrity styling has driven three major changes in mindset: letting the design speak rather than just the sparkle; expanding the colour palette from deep reds to champagne and blush pinks; and embracing freedom of movement by replacing the idea of heavy outfits as luxury with minimal, intelligent design," she adds.

₹25,000 onwards. Available online.

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