Sculpted corsets and pearl detailing define this modern Indian couture collection

From structured hourglass blazers to sculpted corsets, a great cut and sophisticated motifs are great allies in achieving a powerful look. It is this power play that Modo Caldo focuses on in its designs—power dressing with a delicate, feminine touch. The Delhi-based womenswear label, founded in 2017 by Jigyasa Jolly, is built at the intersection of art, fashion, and science.

Modo Caldo blends art, science and craftsmanship in its latest couture line

Their latest collection, titled ISHQe, is a study in this contrast. Jigyasa Jolly says the idea behind ISHQe is a phonetic rendering of Ishq, the Urdu word for love, yet the collection reaches well beyond romance. “It is an exploration of devotion in its many forms: the love poured into one’s craft, the quiet discipline of a creative process, and the deeply personal act of returning to oneself. The name was chosen to feel both familiar and strange, much like love often does—not something you announce, but someth-ing you gradually come to recognise,” shares Jigyasa.

So how does this collection reflect Modo Caldo’s mix of art, fashion, and science? “For us, art comes through in the language of embellishment, where emotion is translated into something tangible. In this collection, pearls become our key element, representing grace, time, and resilience. The textures add depth to the garments, while a strong focus on construction ensures that each piece remains grounded in precision. Science is most visible in our corsetry, where proportions such as the bust-to-waist ratio and underbust support are carefully considered to achieve a tailored fit for Indian body types,” explains Jigyasa.

To capture the dual themes of strength and vulnerability, the brand has worked primarily with viscose and silk-based blends that allow for fluidity while still holding structure where needed. “Our decision to avoid polyester-led compositions is a conscious one, rooted in the belief that what we wear should exist in harmony with our bodies. Beyond the environmental footprint, we are equally mindful of the long-term impact of synthetic fibres on personal well-being. It plays a meaningful role in long-term health and in how materials interact with the body—not only for the wearers, but also in reducing plastic exposure for the artisans crafting these pieces,” says Jigyasa.

Their on-demand model is also central to the brand’s philosophy of conscious fashion. “Because we only produce what is requested, it allows us to focus on the individuality of each piece. This influence is seen in the level of detail and craftsmanship within ISHQe. It ensures that every garment is treated with the care of a custom creation, reducing waste and allowing us to maintain a more personal connection between the design and the person who eventually wears it,” she says.

ISHQe represents a defining milestone for Modo Caldo. It is their inaugural Modern Indian Couture collection, marking a clear evolution in both their creative vision and technical approach. “Through this collection, we have found our Indian identity—a foundation that we will continue to build upon. This evolution is most evident in our silhouettes, which have become quieter, more tender, and more intimate. We have expanded our range of corsets to include varied styles and forms, ensuring each one accentuates Indian body types while creating a natural harmony with Indian silhouettes. There is a romantic quality and a bittersweet honesty in this work that we have not explored before,” she adds.

Prices start at Rs 20,000. In stores and online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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